Boho Twist Scarf: Free Crochet Pattern

No matter what time of year, starting your market prep early is always a good idea! If you’re in need of a beautiful crochet scarf to add to your list of market goods, then the latest free crochet pattern, the Boho Twist Scarf, from designer Jade Wald is exactly what you need. Made from comfy Bernat Blanket yarn, it’s a cozy crochet scarf to keep you warm in winter. It features a lovely braided crochet cable pattern that creates the twist on the scarf, which give it a unique texture to it. No matter what color you make it in, this crochet cable scarf will look amazing! You’ll love cuddling up with this easy crochet blanket scarf during the cold winter months. With that, let’s get to Jade’s pattern!

A Little About Me

Hi maker! My name is Jade, and I’m the designer behind Jaded Crafts and Creations. I started knitting 3 years ago after a tough personal loss. I heard that knitting was a great way to relax but also keep your hands and mind busy, which was just what I needed! I took a class (thank you, Michael’s) where I learned basic stitches. I enjoyed knitting but it didn’t flow well for me, however, my obsession with yarn was already deeply imbedded! 

A few months later, a friend taught me a few crochet stitches. I was instantly hooked! (Ha!). I practiced crochet for the rest of that day and almost everyday thereafter. I often found myself adjusting patterns to better fit my needs and eventually started making my own designs. I enjoy creating home decor items and women’s fashion but may soon be dabbling in some baby items as well. 

I’m also a Mom to a sweet 6 month old baby girl. She makes appearances often as she’s is a great little model! Finding the balance between Mom life and business life has been tough but I’m slowly pursuing my passion again, one nap at a time! 

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Inspiration

The inspiration for this pattern came after completing my first cabled blanket. I was so amazed by the way a simple front post stitch could add so much dimension to a project! I also love working with Bernat Blanket yarn, so I look for any opportunity to use it! It’s a very cozy, chenille style yarn and works up with gorgeous texture. This boho twist scarf is like a beautiful portion of a cabled blanket! It’s an oversized long crochet scarf, super warm, and luxuriously soft.

Techniques Used in the Pattern

Cabled projects can seem daunting if you’ve never tried them, but you’ll soon find them addicting! This is definitely a technique you’ll want to learn! You have to pay careful attention to counting your stitches. However, it’s no harder than following a regular pattern, and the results are pretty amazing! Soon this braided crochet cable pattern will come naturally to you. Since this is made in Bernat Blanket Yarn, the big stitches will help you keep track of your cables, and help make this an easy crochet pattern. Let’s get to the pattern!

If you love this pattern, you’ll also love:

1. Unraveled Cardi 2. Cross Back Cardigan 3. May Flowers Blanket

Pattern Difficulty:

Intermediate or Advanced Beginner – if you like to challenge yourself!

Finished Size:

8 1/4 inches (21cm) wide x 81 inches (206cm) long (not including fringe)

This was my finished size with 2 full skeins. You can choose to make yours shorter, if you like. Fringe is also optional!

Supplies List:

Gauge:

8 rows x 9 stitches in Single Crochet = 4 inches

Stitch Abbreviations(US Standard):

  • CH = chain
  • ST = stitch
  • SC = single crochet
  • FPTC = front post triple crochet

Pattern Notes:

  • I crochet with loose tension. If you crochet with tight tension, you may need to go up a hook size or more.
  • Chain 1 is not counted as a stitch.
  • I designed this scarf to be extra long but I’m also a giant, measuring in at 6ft tall. You can make yours shorter if you please, just keep trying it on until it’s the length you are happy with.

 

Boho Twist Blanket Scarf Pattern:

Fringe(Optional):

Cut thirty six 18 inch pieces. Set aside.

*Cut your fringe before you start to ensure you have enough yarn.*

Scarf:

Foundation Chain: Leave a 9 inch tail.(to blend in with your fringe) CH19

Row 1: (Right Side): 1SC into 2nd CH from hook, 1SC into each CH to end. CH1, Turn. (18SC)

Row 2: SC across, CH1, Turn (18SC)

Row 3: (Cable fountain): 2SC, 2FPTC, 2SC, 6FPTC, 2SC, 2FPTC, 2SC. CH1, Turn. (8SC,10FPTC) *This row sets where your cables will be for the rest of your scarf*

Row 4: Same as row 2. (18SC)

Row 5: *Work front posts around front posts from last row. Work single crochets into current row. Single crochets anchor the cables.*

2SC, 2FPTC, 2SC, 6FPTC, 2SC, 2FPTC, 2SC. CH1, Turn. (18SC,10FPTC)

Row 6: Same as row 2.

Row 7: 2SC, 2FPTC, 2SC, Skip 3 FPTC, 3FPTC, go back and work 3 skipped FPTC (You are crossing back to the skipped stitches. This creates the cable twist.) 2SC, 2FPTC, 2SC. CH1, Turn.

Row 8: Same as row 2. * be sure to count your stitches, it’s easy to miss one in the cable crossover.*

Row 9: Same as row 3. * First 3 FPTC will be hidden behind cable crossover. You can see them from the back – it helps to grab hold of the stitch to make sure you get the right one.*

Repeat rows 2-9 until desired length – ending on row 9. CH1, turn.

To finish:

Row 1: SC across, CH1, turn.

Row 2: SC across. Tie off leaving a 9 inch tail (if you are having fringe)

Add 1 piece of fringe to each SC. To add fringe: fold one strand in half, insert into SC, bring end of strands through the loop (created by folding in half), pull tight.

This pattern doesn’t have fun summer vibes but I know a lot of you are working hard on the fall market prep! Bernat has some new colours and the burnt mustard is drool worthy! Does that get any more perfect for fall? I think it would look gorgeous with this pattern… just saying! 

I hope you enjoyed the Boho Twist Scarf! To celebrate this guest blog post – the ad free PDF is currently on sale for $1 on my website and on Ravelry. The PDF comes with two versions, one written as you see here on the blog and one with step by step photos for a little extra guidance!

Happy stitching,

~Jade Wald

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Unclouded Cardi Crochet Cocoon Cardigan: Free Crochet Pattern

No matter what time of year it is, I am all about wearing oversized cardigans! Crochet cardigans and sweaters of any kind make me so happy, and it’s even better when I can wear them all year round. This week the E’Claire Makery guest blogger is my friend Abby from Skeins and Stitches Co, who has designed the gorgeous Unclouded Cardi that is a perfect free cocoon shrug pattern for summer! The crochet mesh created in the pattern helps give this cocoon cardigan a beautiful drape with an open and airy design. It’s definitely a crochet cardigan I would want to wear all summer long. So I am happy to introduce you to my friend Abby, and get to her lovely crochet pattern!

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About Me

I first learned to crochet around 12 years ago with my mom at a class at the public library in our neighborhood. Unfortunately, being a kid, I didn’t have the attention span to stick with a time-consuming and detailed hobby like crocheting. Plus, in my opinion, it didn’t help that the starter project was a single crochet scarf (made in short horizontal rows) that feels like it takes forever when you’re a kid. After finishing that scarf, I tucked all of my crochet supplies into the back of a closet and promptly forgot about the hobby until I was in college (about 5 years ago). I was dealing with a lot of stress at the time and mentioned needing something to do to relax at night and wind down my brain. My mom suggested I try crocheting again and I quickly fell in love with the art. It began as just a relaxing way to keep my hands occupied and get out restless energy while listening to recorded lectures and books for class, but quickly turned into a passion for making unique gifts and decorations. From there, that love blossomed into a love of sharing the techniques and I began teaching my friends and family the basics of crochet. I began to teach workshops in various neighborhoods and groups about six months ago and decided then and there to start the journey to become a Certified Instructor in Crochet with the Craft Yarn Council program. I make a large variety of items, depending on the season, and honestly, what I’m feeling inspired about at the time. I am always cold, so I love to make cozy things, but living in a warm climate allows me to make a lot of fun wearables and accessories for summer as well. I think the basically infinite amount of possibilities of what can be made with crocheting is part of the appeal of the craft for me.  

Pattern Overview

Made from a rectangle, this cocoon cardigan is a great project for beginner and expert crocheters alike. It is simple construction, with a focus on customization and details that create a comfy, breathable, and gorgeous finished garment with just a few stitches. I call it the “Unclouded Cocoon Cardi” because it’s light and airy enough for those cloudless summer days and nights, and just feels like the perfect summer layer.

If you love this pattern, you’ll also love:

Supplies Needed

  • 6.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to achieve a loose and drapey finished “fabric”)
  • Approx. 220 grams / 550 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Jeans Colors – but you could use any worsted weight yarn, just make sure it has good drape to it – the fibers being too stiff will make your finished cardi stiffer and can change the way it looks)
  • Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches (*US Terms*)

Gauge/Dimensions

  • Gauge: 14 stitches (treble crochets) x 5 rows (treble crochets) = 4 inches
  • The most important note on gauge for this pattern is that “loose = good”…you want your stitches to be loose as that creates the airy feel and breathability of the finished product.
  • Finished dimensions of main rectangle (blocked/worn/relaxed): approx 32in (rows height/foundation chain to last row) x 28in (row length)

Construction/customization notes

  • Pattern is made using U.S. terminology.
  • This pattern is completed in “phases” of construction. The row or round numbers will reflect the rows/rounds to be completed in that section or phase, they will not be the full number. The garment is constructed in the following order: phase 1 – main body rectangle, phase 2 – seaming and sleeves, phase 3 – edging/pseudo-collar.
  • In the pictures, both models are wearing the cardigan as written below (model 1 in the dress is 5’8” size M; model 2 in tank top/skirt is 5’7” size S/M). However, because of the simplicity of construction in this pattern, you can customize it to your exact figure and desired fit.
  • You can easily size it up or down – though the pattern written should work for a few sizes, given the amount of stretch and the loose fit. It can be sized by adding more chains to the foundation row (adding length and drape), by adding a few extra rows to the main body (adding width across the back and towards the center), changing the number of stitches you seam together to create the sleeves, changing the number of rounds or decreases in the sleeves, or even adding additional rows to the collar/edging portion. You can also use these adjustments to customize the look of the finished cardi, for example, tightening the sleeves with a longer initial seam or adding additional decreases or rounds. Obviously the yarn quantities suggested below are for the pattern as written, so make sure you plan for any anticipated modifications before purchasing the yarn.

unclouded back view

Pattern Instructions

Phase 1 (Main Body Rectangle):

Foundation Chain: Ch 99 (if you’d like your cardigan to be longer, add additional chains here)

Row 1: Turn, work 1 tr into the 4th chain from the hook, then work 1 tr into each of the remaining stitches (to get the best finished edge, I personally work into the “bump” on the back of the chain stitches, but you use whatever method you prefer). Turn. (96 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, 1 tr into each stitch across. Turn. (96 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 3, skip tr at base of chain, 1 tr in next stitch, *ch 1 – skip 1, tr in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, with final tr in top of turning chain. Turn. (48 tr/ch 1 groups/spaces)

Row 4: Ch 3, *tr in ch 1 space, ch 1, tr in next ch 1 space*, repeat *…* to end of row, with final tr into top of turning chain. Turn. (48 tr/ch 1 groups/spaces)

Rows 5 – 34: Repeat row 4 instructions. (Ch 3, tr in ch 1 space, ch 1, repeat. Turn at end of row). If you’d like to add extra width to your cardigan, just add additional rows here.

Row 35: Ch 3, tr into each stitch and ch 1 space across. Turn. (96 stitches)

Row 36: Ch 3, tr into each stitch across. Break yarn, and tie off. (96 stitches).

Phase 2 (seaming and sleeves):

Seaming (a.k.a. making it actually work as a garment) – this section is what creates the “armholes” and cocoon shape.

Seaming

Lay the finished rectangle out flat. Folding this correctly is the most important step of the entire construction, if it is folded the wrong way, the length and width will be reversed. Lay the rectangle in front of you (on the floor or a large table), so that the “solid” rows (tr in every stitch) are on the left and right sides of the rectangle. This makes the number of stitches the length of the garment, and the number of rows the width. Carefully fold this in half by bringing the top corners of the rectangle to the bottom corners, (hamburger-style if anyone else was taught this method in kindergarten). The fold should produce a long, skinny, rectangle with the solid tr rows on the left and right sides.

Once you have it folded properly, seam up each “side” where the solid rows meet. For the pattern written, sl st 29 stitches together, from the edge towards the fold, to create the arm holes. You should have 38 stitches remaining un-seamed at the fold.

If you’ve made adjustments here, or would like a tighter fitting sleeve, feel free to seam it into a smaller or larger opening based on your personal preference.

After you complete the seam, you can leave it as the single row of slip stitches, or do an additional row of surface slip stitching along the initial slip stitch seam to create a more finished look and interesting texture.

Sleeves

the sleeves start at the join/slip stitch of the seam, and then continue in the round. The turning chain in the sleeves does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 3, tr into each of the 38 sts around, join with sl st to first stitch. (38 stitches)

Round 2: Ch 3, tr2tog, tr into remaining 36 sts, join with sl st to first stitch. (37 stitches)

Round 3: Ch 3, tr2tog, tr in next 2 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 10 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 10 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 2 sts, tr2tog, tr in last stitch, join with sl st to first stitch. (32 stitches)

Round 4: Ch 3, tr2tog, tr in next 13 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 14 sts, join with sl st to first stitch. (30 stitches)

Round 5: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first stitch. (30 stitches)

Repeat with other side to create the other sleeve. Weave in ends, and you’ve completed 95% of this cardigan.

If you would like, this is where you can repeat round 4 to continue tapering and lengthening the sleeve. You can also just repeat the round with 30 stitches, or whatever is a comfortable width for your sleeve. It is totally customizable. The instructions above are for the fit I wanted and the pictured cardi.

Phase 3: Edging/Collar

This section is totally optional. I decided to add it because I like the extra shape it gives to the cardi and the way it finishes the look, but if you would rather skip it, feel free! You can also add additional rows or use taller stitches than I did below if you want it to be more dramatic or more collar/lapel-like. You can also start it lower/go around more of the cardigan or less.

Starting with the cardigan laid in front of you, join the yarn with a sl st to the base of the 5th row from the seam.

Row 1: Sl st into the first stitch opening. Then single crochet around and down to the base of the 5th row down from the seam on the other side (matching it to the same spot that you started the yarn on the initial side). I did 160 and spaced them evenly, roughly 3-4 single crochets per post/turning chain around the edge. Slip stitch the last stitch to the base of the 5th row from the seam to match the other side. Turn. You could do more or fewer to create a more wavy look or a tighter look.

Row 2: Ch 1, working back up the row of single crochets, sc in the next 15, hdc in the next 25, dc 80, hdc 25, sc 15, sl st to initial join spot. Tie off. Weave in ends.

If you did additional customization of length or width, this number will be different. But plan to make sure the single crochets of row 1 are evenly spaced about 3 – 4 per post and you should be able to work out a similar look. You can also add additional rows of the sc, hdc, and dc stitches to create a thicker collar.

I would love to see the finished product (with or without adjustments and customizations) so post using #uncloudedcardi and tag me (@skeinsandstitchesco) when you finish! If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #uncloudedcardi.

You can find me on facebook and Instagram @skeinsandstitchesco, email me at abby@skeinsandstitchesco.com, and find more of my patterns, reviews, and other posts at www.skeinsandstitchesco.com

Happy Stitching,

Abby

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Scrappy Granny Square: Free Crochet Pattern

Granny Squares are one of the most well loved and used techniques in crochet. With a granny square you can make all sorts of crochet patterns ranging from a granny square blanket to granny square bag. You can even customize granny squares crochet patterns to include things like flowers or fun crochet motifs! There is an endless variety to what you can do with them!

This week I am happy to have my friend Natalie from the crochet blog Knitty Natty as this week’s guest blogger. She is sharing her own take on the granny square: the Scrappy Granny Square! Her pattern helps walk you through how to crochet a granny square, and includes links to her photo and video tutorial. This basic granny square crochet pattern is perfect for using up any scraps of yarn you have lying around, cause if you’re anything like me then you’ll have lots of yarn scraps leftover from all of my projects, haha. So with that, I am happy to hand this post over to Natalie!

Hello everyone! My name is Natalie also known as Knitty Natty. I’m a knit and crochet designer, podcaster, blogger, and Instagram addict. I live in Texas with my husband and our crazy dog, Toaster. My day job is teaching Reading at an elementary school, but you’ll always find me writing up patterns during my lunch break. I started an after school knit and crochet club last school year and we’ve “graduated” nearly 50 young makers since then! I’ve been in the design game for almost a year and it’s my absolute favorite thing to do. As a bicraftual maker, my current motives are to convince capital “K” Knitters to try crochet and to show capital “C” Crocheters that fingering weight yarn is NOT scary! My specialties are knitting socks and detangling yarn. So great to meet you!

Today we’re making a classic- THE SCRAPPY GRANNY. Strangely I crocheted for years without ever making a granny square. Relatively simple, but massively customizable, the granny square is one of the great building blocks of crochet. These grannies aren’t just for your grannies, y’all!

If you love this pattern, you’ll also love:

1. She Sells Sea Shells Top 2. Cross Back Cardigan 3. May Flowers Blanket

The Yarn

What makes these granny squares special is that they are made with fingering weight yarn. When you have that coveted skein of hand-dyed sock yarn, it’s too painful to throw away the leftover bits- so why not make something from them? I originally made mine with leftover yarn from knit socks. The result of a granny made with gorgeous sock yarn is delicate and contemporary.  Now I make mine with mini-skeins and advent calendar yarn. You can make them with the tiniest bit of yarn- just 8-10 grams!

How to Use the Squares

What do you do with all these granny squares from projects past? Make a blanket of course! Just chose a solid color yarn to join all your squares together to make a cohesive blanket. This is one of those sweet long-term projects for me. Each square is a little piece of a project that comes together to make one big memory blanket.

Supplies:

  • 8-10 grams of fingering/sock weight yarn
  • 3.25 mm (D) crochet hook
  • Darning needle to weave in those darn ends

Abbreviations:

All crochet stitches are in standard US terms.

Scrappy Granny Video Tutorial:

Pattern Notes:

  • All crochet stitches are done in US crochet terms.
  • I recommend reading through the entire pattern before starting to make sure you completely understand it.
  • If you like photo tutorials, check out the Scrappy Granny Photo Tutorial on the Knitty Natty blog.

Scrappy Granny Pattern:

Begin with a magic circle (tutorial).

Rnd 1: Ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc2 into circle, ch2.

*Dc3, ch2; repeat from * two more times. Join with a sl st to top of first ch3.

You just made four dc3 clusters and four ch2 corners- yay!

 

Rnd 2: Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner.

First corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3.

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Repeat Corner in each ch2 space around.

Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

Now you have eight dc3 clusters and… well still four ch2 corners. We’re making a square after all. Did you notice those center spaces? Read on!

Rnd 3: Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner.

First corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3.

Center: Dc3 in center space.

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Alternate Center and Corner around. End with Center. Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

This center is in between the corner clusters you made in the previous round. No need to go into the stitch, just dive right into the space.

Okay, we’re getting into the rhythm now. You should have 12 dc3 clusters- 4 which make the centers and 8 which make the corners. Do you still have four ch2 corner spaces? Good, you’re on the right track.

Rnd 4 and following rnds:

Sl st in next two dc and 1st corner.

First corner: Ch3, dc2, ch2, dc3.

Centers: Dc3 in each center space.

Corner: Dc3, ch2, dc3 in next corner space. Repeat Centers and Corner around.

Join with a sl st in top of first ch3.

On Round 4 you will have 2 center spaces. On Round 5 you’ll have 3 center spaces. Round 6 = 4 center spaces. Are you catching on? You genius, you!

Continue Rnd 4 until desired size or you run out of yarn! After last join in the top of first ch3, cut yarn and pull all the way through. Weave in ends.

 

Squares pictured shows 7 rounds total or 5 center clusters per side. Squares are 4.5” wide.

 

Scrappy Granny is my favorite pattern to work over and over. She’s like that comfort project you reach for when your brain can’t do anything else. Each Christmas I order a yarn advent calendar. I open up a new mini-skein from December 1st to the 25th and crochet a Scrappy Granny each day. My current Scrappy Granny blanket includes color ways that are exclusively Harry Potter-related. I’m a sucker for a good fandom yarn.

I hope you enjoy making grannies as much as I do. Let your creativity fly making these lovely little blocks. Feel free to adjust the yarn weight and hook to suit your desired fabric. Make larger squares or smaller squares. I even saw a crafter that substituted half double crochets which resulted in a puffier, less open square. You’re the boss of your yarn. You can find all of my patterns on Ravelry under Love in Stitches. My YouTube Channel is Knitty Natty and podcast is Love in Stitches. Or you can check out my blog at knittynatty.com. For the most recent happenings, keep up with me on Instagram- @knittynatty.

 

Love in stitches,

Knitty Natty

 

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How to Crochet a Convertible Wrap

It’s time for another guest blog post here on the E’Claire Makery blog, and this week I’m featuring a beautiful convertible crochet wrap sweater from Susanna of Crochet Fosbas. I love crochet garments that can be worn all sorts of different ways, and one of my favorites is how many ways you can wear a crochet wrap. This free easy crochet wrap pattern has so many different ways that you can wear it! Wear it as a crochet wrap scarf, a wrap sweater, a wrap with a hood, and so many more. It’s an awesome versatile pattern that can be worn in an endless combination of ways!

What makes this design even better is that you can do it in any weight of yarn. Isn’t that awesome?! For this pattern, Susanna designed it using Hobbii Cotton Kings yarn, which is a fingering weight yarn. In her pattern she says that this crochet wrap can be made with more types of yarn though too. It will just change how heavy it is. If you don’t have access to Hobbii yarns and want to use a fingering weight, Red Heart It’s A Wrap Yarn or Lion Brand Shawl in A Cake would be great substitutes.

With that, let’s get to Susanna’s pattern!

Love this design? Pin it to your favorite Pinterest Board!

I’m Susanna Biaye the face behind @crochet_fosbas. I’m a wife and Mum to a Toddler. I learned knitting and crocheting from my Mum when I was about 8, I made lots of baby Booties and beanies then. I had a break from crafting while I focused on my studies. However, after many years, my interest was rekindled during my baby’s pregnancy since I wanted to make all his needed cardigans, booties, blankets. The rest is history!

Since then, I’ve made lots of items majorly accessories and clothing items. This craft has become part of me and I love every moment. I also have few of my patterns published in Crochet Magazine (Happily hooked Magazine). I’m honored to be sharing my pattern with you here.

The pattern was inspired by my first ever convertible beanie (I love making convertibles)! I’ve always wanted designs which can be used in different ways and serving numerous purposes. This wrap design fits those two purposes, and I hope you love it as much as I do. The design itself can be adapted to many different sizes. This pattern is made by crocheting a VERY wide rectangle (which would wrap around the chest) and then the sleeves. The good news is that – There are no sewing! It is basically a repeat of same stitches but they won’t bore you.

If you love this design, you’ll also love:

1. She Sells Sea Shells Top 2. Cross Back Cardigan 3. May Flowers Blanket

(The rest of the post may be sponsored or contain affiliate links. See my full affiliate disclosure here.)

Supplies:

  • Fingering weight yarn such as Red Heart It’s a Wrap or Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (I used Hobbii yarn in cotton kings (Axinite) (100%cotton)
    • Estimated yarn: S -1093 yards, M – 1311 yards, L – 1575 yards XL – 1575 yards
    • I strongly recommend using a light weight yarn for this project– I have included the gauge and measurement of each petal, to make it easier. Please note that if using a worsted weight yarn, it would be bulky and fit perfectly as a winter wrap
  • Hook – 4.0mm (G/6)
  • Yarn needle (to sew in the ends)
  • Scissors

Gauge:

For cotton 4 ply – 30DC, 6 rows = 7” by 3”

For worsted weight yarn – 30DC, 7 rows = 6”by 3”

Skill level – intermediate

Stitches and Abbreviations:

  • Ch(s) – Chain(s) (tutorial here.)
  • Sl st – Slip stitch
  • DC – Double Crochet (tutorial here.)
  • Tr – treble crochet (tutorial here.)
  • St – stitch
  • Sts – stitches
  • Sps – Space(s)
  • FO – Fasten off
  • S – Small
  • M – Medium
  • L – Large
  • XL – Extra Large
  • [] – stitch amounts in between brackets are for each size indicated by the abbreviation for the size

Measurements:

Size Sleeve length Chest Total length Small 18” 34” 87” long, height – 10” Medium 19” 36” 92” long, height – 10” Large 19” 40” 98” long, height – 12” X-large 20” 44” 106” long, height – 14”

Pattern size calculation: (chest – bust) measurement x 1.5) + (sleeve length x 2)

i.e for small – chest measurement is 34”, sleeve = 18” = (34 x 1.5) + (18 x2)

Notes:

  1. Each petal measures approximately = (using cotton 4ply yarn – 2” wide and 1.5” tall)(worsted weight yarn – 2.5” wide and 2”tall)
  1. Numbers of petals per size is as follows, Small – 20 petals, m – 21 petals, l – 24 petals, X-large – 26 petals
  1. Number of starting chains is 15 x number of petals + 2 (Chains are in multiples of 15 plus 2)
  2. The first part to be made is the part labeled A, while the sleeve is then made on the sides of the large rectangle
  3. The breath of the front panel must be wide enough to wrap around your upper arm
  4. You can decide to make a short sleeve
  5. You can use a bigger hook to make your chains, or make your chains loosely, which would make working on the chains much easier. do not forget to switch back to 4.0mm hook

Pattern

Starting: Chain – 302 (317, 362, 392) {Do you feel the number of the starting chains is overwhelming? I do too, after first row I PROMISE the number reduce by almost half}

Working in rows

Row 1: 1SC into 2nd CH from hook, *(CH2, skip next 2CH sps, 1SC in next CH, skip 2 CHs, 3DC in next, 4DC in next CH, 4DC in next CH, 3DC in next CH, skip 2 CHS, 1SC in next CH, CH2, Skip 2 CHS, 1SC) repeat* 19, 20, 23, 25 more times. CH1, turn, [S – 61SC, 280 DC, 40 CH 2 SPS, 20 clusters, M – 64SC, 294DC, 42CH2 SPS, 21 clusters, L– 73 SC, 336 DC, 48 CH2 SPS, 24 clusters, XL –79SC, 364DC, 52CH2 SPS, 26 clusters]

Row 2: 1SC in first st, *{1SC in CH2 sp, (1DC, 2DC) 3 times, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC) 3 times, skip next 2 sts, 1SC in next CH2 sp} repeat from * 19 (20, 23, 25) more times 1SC in last st, CH6, turn

Note on Row 2. The single crochets in the {} are all made on CH 2 spaces, [S – 400DC, 42SC, M – 420DC, 44SC, L – 480DC, 50SC, XL – 520DC, 54SC]

Row 3: skip first 7sts, SC in 8th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}* 19, 20, 23, 25 more times. CH1, skip next 5 sts, 1Tr in last st. CH1, turn [S – 121SC, 40 CH2SPS, 20 TR, 20 CH1 SPS, M – 127 SC, 42 CH2SPS, 21TR, 21 CH 1SPS, L – 145 SC, 48 CH2 SPS, 24TR, 24 CH1 SPS, XL – 157 SC, 52 CH2 SPS, 26TR, 26 CH1 SPS]

Note – if using different colors, FO color A, join color B

Row 4: 1SC in CH1 sp,* (1SC in 1st CH2 sp, skip next 2 sts, 14DC in CH5 space, skip next 2 sts, 1SC in CH2 sp) repeat *19, 20, 23, 25 more times. 1SC in last st, CH1, turn [S – 41 SC, 280 DC, 20 CH5 SPS, M – 43SC, 294DC, 21 CH 5 SPS, L – 49SC, 336DC, 24 CH5 SPS, XL – 53SC, 364DC, 26 CH2 SPS]

Row 5: 1SC in first st, *{1SC in next st, (1DC, 2DC) 3 times, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC) 3 times, 1SC in next st} repeat from {}* 19, 20, 23, 24 more times. 1SC in last st, CH6, turn [S – 400DC, 42SC, M – 420DC, 44SC, L – 480DC, 50SC, XL – 520DC, 54SC]

Row 6: Skip first 6 sts, SC in 7th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}*19, 20, 23, 24 more times. CH1, skip next 5 sts, 1Tr in last st. CH1, turn [S – 121SC, 40 CH2SPS, 20 TR, 20 CH1 SPS, M – 127 SC, 42 CH2SPS, 21TR, 21 CH 1SPS, L – 145 SC, 48 CH2 SPS, 24TR, 24 CH1 SPS, XL – 157 SC, 52 CH2 SPS, 26TR, 26 CH1 SPS]

Note – if using different colors, FO color B, join color C

Row 4 – row 6 forms the basic pattern and should be repeated 4 (4, 5, 6) more times

Working in round

Turn your work by 90° (to the side), work the following stitches

Number of petals in the arm x 2 = arm hole. For an armhole of 12”, 6 petals would be needed!!

Attach yarn with a sl. St to the edge of last row, (THE PART MARKED RED IN THE PICTURE ABOVE)

Round 1: CH2, 1HDC into each of the sts on the sides of the petals, making sure that you work 10 Hdc into each side and NOT ON THE CHAINS of the petals, (60, 60, 70, 80 HDC) join with a sl st to 2nd CH

FOR SMALL AND MEDIUM –

Round 2: CH1, 1SC in first 6 sts, *(1SC in next st, 2SC in next st) repeat 23 more times 1SC in last 6 sts, join with a sl.st with the 2nd CH, CH2. (84 SC)

FOR LARGE –

Round 2: – CH1, 1SC in first 6 sts, *(1SC in next st, 2SC in next st) repeat 26 more times, 2SC in next st, 1SC in last 9 sts, join with a sl.st with the 2nd CH (98 SC)

FOR X-LARGE –

Round 2: CH1, 1 SC in first 6 sts, *(1SC in next st, 2SC in next st) repeat 31 times, 1SC in last 10 sts, join with a sl.st with the 2nd CH, CH2. (112SC)

NOTE – the number of stitches at the end of Row 2 must be divisible by 14

i.e for small and medium, there should be 84 stitches which would give 6 petals in the arm (84/14 = 6)

Round 3: *(1SC, CH2, skip 2sts, 1SC, CH2, skip 2, 1SC, CH5, 1SC, CH2, skip 2, 1SC, CH2, skip 2, 1SC) repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, join to 2nd CH made at the beginning CH2. [S – 36 SC, 24 CH2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, M – 36 SC, 24 CH2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, L – 42 SC, 28 CH2 sps, 7 CH5 sps, XL – 48 SC, 32 CH2 sps, 8 CH5 sps]

Round 4: *(CH2, 1 SC in next CH2 sp, 1 SC in next CH2 sp, 14DC in CH5 sp, skip next CH2 sp, 1SC in next CH2 sp), repeat * 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, with a sl st, join to 2nd CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 6 CH2 sps, 18 SC, 84 DC, M – 6 CH2 sps, 18 SC, 84 DC, L – 7 CH2 sps, 21 SC, 98 DC, XL – 8 CH2 sps, 24SC, 112DC]

Round 5: 1SC in first st, *{skip next st, 1SC in next st, (1DC, 2DC) 3 times, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC) 3 times, 1SC in next CH2 sp, 1SC in next st} repeat from {}* repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, join to 2nd CH from the beginning, [S – 19 SC, 120DC, M – 19 SC, 120DC, L – 37 SC, 140 DC, XL – 49SC, 160DC]

Round 6: CH 6, skip first 6sts, SC in 7th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1 SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}* repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, CH1, skip next 5sts, with a sl st, join to 6th CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 37 SC, 12CH2 SPS, 6 CH5 SPS, M – 37 SC, 12CH2 SPS, 6 CH5 SPS, L – 43SC, 14CH2 SPS, 7 CH5 SPS, XL – 49SC, 18CH2 SPS, 8CH5 SPS]

Round 7: 1SC, *(1SC in 1st CH2 sp, skip next 2 sts, 14DC in CH5 sp, skip next st, 1SC in CH 2sp) repeat * repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, 1SC in last st, join to 2nd CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 14SC, 84DC, M – 14DC, 84DC, L – 16SC, 98DC, XL – 18SC, 112DC]

Round 8: 1SC in first st, *{1SC IN NEXT ST, (1DC, 2DC)*3, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC)*3, 1SC in next st} repeat * repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, 1SC in last st, join with a sl. St in CH2 sp, CH 6, [S – 14SC, 120DC, M – 14SC, 120DC, L – 16 SC, 140 DC, XL – 20SC, 160DC]

Round 9: skip first 6sts, Sc in 7th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}* repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, CH1, sk next 5sts, with a sl st, join to 6th CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 36 SC, 12CH 2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, M – 36 SC, 12 CH2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, L – 43SC, 14 CH2 sps, 7 CH5 sps, XL – 49SC, 18 CH2 sps, 8 CH5 sps]

Repeat round 5 – round 7 (which forms the basic petal) 10, 10, 10, 11 more times, (or till you have a length long enough as sleeves)

Once you’re finished with the length that you want it! Then block your wrap and enjoy wearing it!

Here’s a video I made on how I wear the scarf https://youtu.be/MbEwxnmBnzE. I would love to see your makes, do tag me with pictures on Instagram @crochet_fosbas, or if you need any clarifications, do send me an email to fosbascrochet@gmail.com.

Happy stitching,

Sussana

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Fast Track Puff Mat by Yarnique

It’s time for another guest blogging pattern! This week’s guest blogger is Chantal from Yarnique Blog. She’s created a fun and easy beginner rug crochet pattern made from t-shirt yarn! This rectangle crochet rug uses simple crochet stitches, can be made in any color, and is great for any room. I’m excited to share her pattern with you and see what color combinations you make from it!

Hey makers! I’m Chantal (pronounced shon-tel) and I’m the creator behind Yarnique. I started crocheting actively when I was pregnant with my first in 2017 and started knitting about a year ago. My eldest girl is now 11 and I’ve been a SAHM for my boy/girl twins since they were born in April 2015. I grew up and currently live in the suburbs right outside Nashville, Tennessee. I share free knit and crochet designs on my blog and I’m honored to be sharing a pattern with you here today! When designing, I like to use simple stitches and techniques in a unique way to make something beautiful and this design, in my opinion, is no exception! Although I’m starting to get into designing garments, I still love a good crochet home decor piece, don’t you?!

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Fast Track Puff Mat Free Crochet Rug Pattern by Yarnqiue Blog for ECLAIREMAKERY.COM

About The Yarn

Have you ever used t-shirt yarn before? If you haven/t yet, I definitely recommend giving it a go. For this particular project, I used Lion Brand Fast-Track in the colorway Pink Convertible. However, most of them are basically the same: long, flat, tubular shape and usually made of cotton or a blend of. It provides such beautiful stitch definition and structure to a finished project. Normally with this type of yarn and project, you go down a hook size or two to get tighter tension for a stiffer fabric. With the stitch used in this project, however, I went up 2mm in hook sizes than the yarn called for, from the recommended 8mm to 10mm. You could also use an outdoor-friendly fabric like Bernat Maker Home Dec yarn for an outdoor piece.

Techniques Used

The stitch I used for this project is most commonly referred to as the ‘Horizontal Puff Stitch.’ It creates a very thick and sturdy fabric making it perfect for this project. My rug is a good 1/4″ thick, therefore it’s nicely padded and comfortable to sit or stand on.  I’ve included a step-by-step photo tutorial to walk you through working this stitch if you’ve never used it before. Don’t worry, it’s super fun, easy, and satisfying once you get the hang of it after those first couple rows!

Inspiration For Design

I made this rug with my 11-year-old daughter in mind but there are so many possibilities for it. I can see it in another bright color in a sunroom or in a neutral tone with farmhouse decor. I think this is a super versatile home decor piece and I hope you enjoy making it! Let’s get to it, shall we?

Skill Level:

Easy

Gauge:

4 sts and 6.25 rows in pattern is 4″ x 4″ (10x10cm)

Finished Measurements:

20″ (50cm) x 32″ (81cm), before adding the fringe

Materials:

5 balls (approximately 675 yards) Lion Brand Fast-Track or comparable super bulky yarn
US Size N/13/10mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Scissors

Stitch Index:

R-row/round

ch-chain

ch-sp-chain space

st(s)-stitch(es)

sk-skip

sl st-slip stitch

sc-single crochet

ps-puff stitch (*yo, insert hook and pull up a loop* 3 times, yo and pull through all 7 loops on hook)

Fast Track Puff Mat Free Crochet Rug Pattern by Yarnqiue Blog for ECLAIREMAKERY.COM

Horizontal Puff Stitch Tutorial:

This project starts with a ch 41. I’ve used a swatch 4 puff stitches wide for photos. The beginning chain should be multiples of 2 +1.

Fast Track Rug Horizontal Puff Stitch Tutorial

1. *yo, insert hook and pull up a loop* 3 times in the 3rd ch from your hook
2. yo, pull through all loops, ch 1
3. *sk 1 ch, ps in next ch* to end
Fast Track Rug Horizontal Puff Stitch Tutorial
4. ch 1, turn, ps into the side of the last ps from the previous row (the photo below shows the two strands you should work your ps into)
5. *ch 1, ps into the side of the next ps* across
6. repeat the last row until the desired length

Pattern:

Foundation: ch 41
R1: ps in the 3rd ch from your hook, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, ps in the next ch* repeat from * to * across, ch 2, turn
R2: ps into the side of the last ps from the previous row, *ch 1, ps into the side of the next ps*, repeat from * to * across, ch 2, turn
R3-51: repeat R2, after R51, ch 1 and turn for the edging row
R52: sc into the side of the last ps from the previous row, *sc into the top of the ps from two rows previous as seen in the top left photo below, sc into the side of the next ps* repeat from * to * across, break yarn (39)
Fast Track Rug Horizontal Puff Stitch Tutorial
R53 with the right side facing up (the only difference now is the side you worked the other edging row on) attach a new strand of yarn with a sc in the ch of the very first ps made as seen in the top left photo below, *sc into the back couple strands of the ps from 2 rows below as seen in the top 2 right photos below, sc in the ch of the next ps* repeat from * to * across, break yarn (39)
Fast Track Rug Horizontal Puff Stitch Tutorial
Fringe:
Cut 78 6″ strands of yarn and attach one strand in each stitch on both of the short ends.
Weave in your ends and you’ve got yourself a cute and functional new rug!
Fast Track Puff Mat Free Crochet Rug Pattern by Yarnqiue Blog for ECLAIREMAKERY.COM
I hope you enjoyed my pattern and I’m always happy to help with any questions you may have! You can find me on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest all with the same handle: @YarniqueBlog. Find all of my free patterns on my blog at www.yarnique.com and shop my discounted PDFs on Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrochet/Knitting.com. Happy making, friends!!
Chantal

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Fast Track Puff Mat Free Crochet Rug Pattern by Yarnqiue Blog for ECLAIREMAKERY.COM