Unclouded Cardi Crochet Cocoon Cardigan: Free Crochet Pattern

No matter what time of year it is, I am all about wearing oversized cardigans! Crochet cardigans and sweaters of any kind make me so happy, and it’s even better when I can wear them all year round. This week the E’Claire Makery guest blogger is my friend Abby from Skeins and Stitches Co, who has designed the gorgeous Unclouded Cardi that is a perfect free cocoon shrug pattern for summer! The crochet mesh created in the pattern helps give this cocoon cardigan a beautiful drape with an open and airy design. It’s definitely a crochet cardigan I would want to wear all summer long. So I am happy to introduce you to my friend Abby, and get to her lovely crochet pattern!

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About Me

I first learned to crochet around 12 years ago with my mom at a class at the public library in our neighborhood. Unfortunately, being a kid, I didn’t have the attention span to stick with a time-consuming and detailed hobby like crocheting. Plus, in my opinion, it didn’t help that the starter project was a single crochet scarf (made in short horizontal rows) that feels like it takes forever when you’re a kid. After finishing that scarf, I tucked all of my crochet supplies into the back of a closet and promptly forgot about the hobby until I was in college (about 5 years ago). I was dealing with a lot of stress at the time and mentioned needing something to do to relax at night and wind down my brain. My mom suggested I try crocheting again and I quickly fell in love with the art. It began as just a relaxing way to keep my hands occupied and get out restless energy while listening to recorded lectures and books for class, but quickly turned into a passion for making unique gifts and decorations. From there, that love blossomed into a love of sharing the techniques and I began teaching my friends and family the basics of crochet. I began to teach workshops in various neighborhoods and groups about six months ago and decided then and there to start the journey to become a Certified Instructor in Crochet with the Craft Yarn Council program. I make a large variety of items, depending on the season, and honestly, what I’m feeling inspired about at the time. I am always cold, so I love to make cozy things, but living in a warm climate allows me to make a lot of fun wearables and accessories for summer as well. I think the basically infinite amount of possibilities of what can be made with crocheting is part of the appeal of the craft for me.  

Pattern Overview

Made from a rectangle, this cocoon cardigan is a great project for beginner and expert crocheters alike. It is simple construction, with a focus on customization and details that create a comfy, breathable, and gorgeous finished garment with just a few stitches. I call it the “Unclouded Cocoon Cardi” because it’s light and airy enough for those cloudless summer days and nights, and just feels like the perfect summer layer.

If you love this pattern, you’ll also love:

Supplies Needed

  • 6.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to achieve a loose and drapey finished “fabric”)
  • Approx. 220 grams / 550 yards of worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand Jeans Colors – but you could use any worsted weight yarn, just make sure it has good drape to it – the fibers being too stiff will make your finished cardi stiffer and can change the way it looks)
  • Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitches (*US Terms*)

Gauge/Dimensions

  • Gauge: 14 stitches (treble crochets) x 5 rows (treble crochets) = 4 inches
  • The most important note on gauge for this pattern is that “loose = good”…you want your stitches to be loose as that creates the airy feel and breathability of the finished product.
  • Finished dimensions of main rectangle (blocked/worn/relaxed): approx 32in (rows height/foundation chain to last row) x 28in (row length)

Construction/customization notes

  • Pattern is made using U.S. terminology.
  • This pattern is completed in “phases” of construction. The row or round numbers will reflect the rows/rounds to be completed in that section or phase, they will not be the full number. The garment is constructed in the following order: phase 1 – main body rectangle, phase 2 – seaming and sleeves, phase 3 – edging/pseudo-collar.
  • In the pictures, both models are wearing the cardigan as written below (model 1 in the dress is 5’8” size M; model 2 in tank top/skirt is 5’7” size S/M). However, because of the simplicity of construction in this pattern, you can customize it to your exact figure and desired fit.
  • You can easily size it up or down – though the pattern written should work for a few sizes, given the amount of stretch and the loose fit. It can be sized by adding more chains to the foundation row (adding length and drape), by adding a few extra rows to the main body (adding width across the back and towards the center), changing the number of stitches you seam together to create the sleeves, changing the number of rounds or decreases in the sleeves, or even adding additional rows to the collar/edging portion. You can also use these adjustments to customize the look of the finished cardi, for example, tightening the sleeves with a longer initial seam or adding additional decreases or rounds. Obviously the yarn quantities suggested below are for the pattern as written, so make sure you plan for any anticipated modifications before purchasing the yarn.

unclouded back view

Pattern Instructions

Phase 1 (Main Body Rectangle):

Foundation Chain: Ch 99 (if you’d like your cardigan to be longer, add additional chains here)

Row 1: Turn, work 1 tr into the 4th chain from the hook, then work 1 tr into each of the remaining stitches (to get the best finished edge, I personally work into the “bump” on the back of the chain stitches, but you use whatever method you prefer). Turn. (96 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3, 1 tr into each stitch across. Turn. (96 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 3, skip tr at base of chain, 1 tr in next stitch, *ch 1 – skip 1, tr in next stitch*, repeat *…* to end of row, with final tr in top of turning chain. Turn. (48 tr/ch 1 groups/spaces)

Row 4: Ch 3, *tr in ch 1 space, ch 1, tr in next ch 1 space*, repeat *…* to end of row, with final tr into top of turning chain. Turn. (48 tr/ch 1 groups/spaces)

Rows 5 – 34: Repeat row 4 instructions. (Ch 3, tr in ch 1 space, ch 1, repeat. Turn at end of row). If you’d like to add extra width to your cardigan, just add additional rows here.

Row 35: Ch 3, tr into each stitch and ch 1 space across. Turn. (96 stitches)

Row 36: Ch 3, tr into each stitch across. Break yarn, and tie off. (96 stitches).

Phase 2 (seaming and sleeves):

Seaming (a.k.a. making it actually work as a garment) – this section is what creates the “armholes” and cocoon shape.

Seaming

Lay the finished rectangle out flat. Folding this correctly is the most important step of the entire construction, if it is folded the wrong way, the length and width will be reversed. Lay the rectangle in front of you (on the floor or a large table), so that the “solid” rows (tr in every stitch) are on the left and right sides of the rectangle. This makes the number of stitches the length of the garment, and the number of rows the width. Carefully fold this in half by bringing the top corners of the rectangle to the bottom corners, (hamburger-style if anyone else was taught this method in kindergarten). The fold should produce a long, skinny, rectangle with the solid tr rows on the left and right sides.

Once you have it folded properly, seam up each “side” where the solid rows meet. For the pattern written, sl st 29 stitches together, from the edge towards the fold, to create the arm holes. You should have 38 stitches remaining un-seamed at the fold.

If you’ve made adjustments here, or would like a tighter fitting sleeve, feel free to seam it into a smaller or larger opening based on your personal preference.

After you complete the seam, you can leave it as the single row of slip stitches, or do an additional row of surface slip stitching along the initial slip stitch seam to create a more finished look and interesting texture.

Sleeves

the sleeves start at the join/slip stitch of the seam, and then continue in the round. The turning chain in the sleeves does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 3, tr into each of the 38 sts around, join with sl st to first stitch. (38 stitches)

Round 2: Ch 3, tr2tog, tr into remaining 36 sts, join with sl st to first stitch. (37 stitches)

Round 3: Ch 3, tr2tog, tr in next 2 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 10 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 10 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 2 sts, tr2tog, tr in last stitch, join with sl st to first stitch. (32 stitches)

Round 4: Ch 3, tr2tog, tr in next 13 sts, tr2tog, tr in next 14 sts, join with sl st to first stitch. (30 stitches)

Round 5: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join with sl st to first stitch. (30 stitches)

Repeat with other side to create the other sleeve. Weave in ends, and you’ve completed 95% of this cardigan.

If you would like, this is where you can repeat round 4 to continue tapering and lengthening the sleeve. You can also just repeat the round with 30 stitches, or whatever is a comfortable width for your sleeve. It is totally customizable. The instructions above are for the fit I wanted and the pictured cardi.

Phase 3: Edging/Collar

This section is totally optional. I decided to add it because I like the extra shape it gives to the cardi and the way it finishes the look, but if you would rather skip it, feel free! You can also add additional rows or use taller stitches than I did below if you want it to be more dramatic or more collar/lapel-like. You can also start it lower/go around more of the cardigan or less.

Starting with the cardigan laid in front of you, join the yarn with a sl st to the base of the 5th row from the seam.

Row 1: Sl st into the first stitch opening. Then single crochet around and down to the base of the 5th row down from the seam on the other side (matching it to the same spot that you started the yarn on the initial side). I did 160 and spaced them evenly, roughly 3-4 single crochets per post/turning chain around the edge. Slip stitch the last stitch to the base of the 5th row from the seam to match the other side. Turn. You could do more or fewer to create a more wavy look or a tighter look.

Row 2: Ch 1, working back up the row of single crochets, sc in the next 15, hdc in the next 25, dc 80, hdc 25, sc 15, sl st to initial join spot. Tie off. Weave in ends.

If you did additional customization of length or width, this number will be different. But plan to make sure the single crochets of row 1 are evenly spaced about 3 – 4 per post and you should be able to work out a similar look. You can also add additional rows of the sc, hdc, and dc stitches to create a thicker collar.

I would love to see the finished product (with or without adjustments and customizations) so post using #uncloudedcardi and tag me (@skeinsandstitchesco) when you finish! If you enjoy this pattern or have any comments or questions, please feel free to reach out via email, facebook, or instagram, and I will happily help you however I can! Take me in your finished makes @skeinsandstitchesco and #uncloudedcardi.

You can find me on facebook and Instagram @skeinsandstitchesco, email me at abby@skeinsandstitchesco.com, and find more of my patterns, reviews, and other posts at www.skeinsandstitchesco.com

Happy Stitching,

Abby

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How to Crochet a Convertible Wrap

It’s time for another guest blog post here on the E’Claire Makery blog, and this week I’m featuring a beautiful convertible crochet wrap sweater from Susanna of Crochet Fosbas. I love crochet garments that can be worn all sorts of different ways, and one of my favorites is how many ways you can wear a crochet wrap. This free easy crochet wrap pattern has so many different ways that you can wear it! Wear it as a crochet wrap scarf, a wrap sweater, a wrap with a hood, and so many more. It’s an awesome versatile pattern that can be worn in an endless combination of ways!

What makes this design even better is that you can do it in any weight of yarn. Isn’t that awesome?! For this pattern, Susanna designed it using Hobbii Cotton Kings yarn, which is a fingering weight yarn. In her pattern she says that this crochet wrap can be made with more types of yarn though too. It will just change how heavy it is. If you don’t have access to Hobbii yarns and want to use a fingering weight, Red Heart It’s A Wrap Yarn or Lion Brand Shawl in A Cake would be great substitutes.

With that, let’s get to Susanna’s pattern!

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I’m Susanna Biaye the face behind @crochet_fosbas. I’m a wife and Mum to a Toddler. I learned knitting and crocheting from my Mum when I was about 8, I made lots of baby Booties and beanies then. I had a break from crafting while I focused on my studies. However, after many years, my interest was rekindled during my baby’s pregnancy since I wanted to make all his needed cardigans, booties, blankets. The rest is history!

Since then, I’ve made lots of items majorly accessories and clothing items. This craft has become part of me and I love every moment. I also have few of my patterns published in Crochet Magazine (Happily hooked Magazine). I’m honored to be sharing my pattern with you here.

The pattern was inspired by my first ever convertible beanie (I love making convertibles)! I’ve always wanted designs which can be used in different ways and serving numerous purposes. This wrap design fits those two purposes, and I hope you love it as much as I do. The design itself can be adapted to many different sizes. This pattern is made by crocheting a VERY wide rectangle (which would wrap around the chest) and then the sleeves. The good news is that – There are no sewing! It is basically a repeat of same stitches but they won’t bore you.

If you love this design, you’ll also love:

1. She Sells Sea Shells Top 2. Cross Back Cardigan 3. May Flowers Blanket

(The rest of the post may be sponsored or contain affiliate links. See my full affiliate disclosure here.)

Supplies:

  • Fingering weight yarn such as Red Heart It’s a Wrap or Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (I used Hobbii yarn in cotton kings (Axinite) (100%cotton)
    • Estimated yarn: S -1093 yards, M – 1311 yards, L – 1575 yards XL – 1575 yards
    • I strongly recommend using a light weight yarn for this project– I have included the gauge and measurement of each petal, to make it easier. Please note that if using a worsted weight yarn, it would be bulky and fit perfectly as a winter wrap
  • Hook – 4.0mm (G/6)
  • Yarn needle (to sew in the ends)
  • Scissors

Gauge:

For cotton 4 ply – 30DC, 6 rows = 7” by 3”

For worsted weight yarn – 30DC, 7 rows = 6”by 3”

Skill level – intermediate

Stitches and Abbreviations:

  • Ch(s) – Chain(s) (tutorial here.)
  • Sl st – Slip stitch
  • DC – Double Crochet (tutorial here.)
  • Tr – treble crochet (tutorial here.)
  • St – stitch
  • Sts – stitches
  • Sps – Space(s)
  • FO – Fasten off
  • S – Small
  • M – Medium
  • L – Large
  • XL – Extra Large
  • [] – stitch amounts in between brackets are for each size indicated by the abbreviation for the size

Measurements:

Size Sleeve length Chest Total length Small 18” 34” 87” long, height – 10” Medium 19” 36” 92” long, height – 10” Large 19” 40” 98” long, height – 12” X-large 20” 44” 106” long, height – 14”

Pattern size calculation: (chest – bust) measurement x 1.5) + (sleeve length x 2)

i.e for small – chest measurement is 34”, sleeve = 18” = (34 x 1.5) + (18 x2)

Notes:

  1. Each petal measures approximately = (using cotton 4ply yarn – 2” wide and 1.5” tall)(worsted weight yarn – 2.5” wide and 2”tall)
  1. Numbers of petals per size is as follows, Small – 20 petals, m – 21 petals, l – 24 petals, X-large – 26 petals
  1. Number of starting chains is 15 x number of petals + 2 (Chains are in multiples of 15 plus 2)
  2. The first part to be made is the part labeled A, while the sleeve is then made on the sides of the large rectangle
  3. The breath of the front panel must be wide enough to wrap around your upper arm
  4. You can decide to make a short sleeve
  5. You can use a bigger hook to make your chains, or make your chains loosely, which would make working on the chains much easier. do not forget to switch back to 4.0mm hook

Pattern

Starting: Chain – 302 (317, 362, 392) {Do you feel the number of the starting chains is overwhelming? I do too, after first row I PROMISE the number reduce by almost half}

Working in rows

Row 1: 1SC into 2nd CH from hook, *(CH2, skip next 2CH sps, 1SC in next CH, skip 2 CHs, 3DC in next, 4DC in next CH, 4DC in next CH, 3DC in next CH, skip 2 CHS, 1SC in next CH, CH2, Skip 2 CHS, 1SC) repeat* 19, 20, 23, 25 more times. CH1, turn, [S – 61SC, 280 DC, 40 CH 2 SPS, 20 clusters, M – 64SC, 294DC, 42CH2 SPS, 21 clusters, L– 73 SC, 336 DC, 48 CH2 SPS, 24 clusters, XL –79SC, 364DC, 52CH2 SPS, 26 clusters]

Row 2: 1SC in first st, *{1SC in CH2 sp, (1DC, 2DC) 3 times, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC) 3 times, skip next 2 sts, 1SC in next CH2 sp} repeat from * 19 (20, 23, 25) more times 1SC in last st, CH6, turn

Note on Row 2. The single crochets in the {} are all made on CH 2 spaces, [S – 400DC, 42SC, M – 420DC, 44SC, L – 480DC, 50SC, XL – 520DC, 54SC]

Row 3: skip first 7sts, SC in 8th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}* 19, 20, 23, 25 more times. CH1, skip next 5 sts, 1Tr in last st. CH1, turn [S – 121SC, 40 CH2SPS, 20 TR, 20 CH1 SPS, M – 127 SC, 42 CH2SPS, 21TR, 21 CH 1SPS, L – 145 SC, 48 CH2 SPS, 24TR, 24 CH1 SPS, XL – 157 SC, 52 CH2 SPS, 26TR, 26 CH1 SPS]

Note – if using different colors, FO color A, join color B

Row 4: 1SC in CH1 sp,* (1SC in 1st CH2 sp, skip next 2 sts, 14DC in CH5 space, skip next 2 sts, 1SC in CH2 sp) repeat *19, 20, 23, 25 more times. 1SC in last st, CH1, turn [S – 41 SC, 280 DC, 20 CH5 SPS, M – 43SC, 294DC, 21 CH 5 SPS, L – 49SC, 336DC, 24 CH5 SPS, XL – 53SC, 364DC, 26 CH2 SPS]

Row 5: 1SC in first st, *{1SC in next st, (1DC, 2DC) 3 times, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC) 3 times, 1SC in next st} repeat from {}* 19, 20, 23, 24 more times. 1SC in last st, CH6, turn [S – 400DC, 42SC, M – 420DC, 44SC, L – 480DC, 50SC, XL – 520DC, 54SC]

Row 6: Skip first 6 sts, SC in 7th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}*19, 20, 23, 24 more times. CH1, skip next 5 sts, 1Tr in last st. CH1, turn [S – 121SC, 40 CH2SPS, 20 TR, 20 CH1 SPS, M – 127 SC, 42 CH2SPS, 21TR, 21 CH 1SPS, L – 145 SC, 48 CH2 SPS, 24TR, 24 CH1 SPS, XL – 157 SC, 52 CH2 SPS, 26TR, 26 CH1 SPS]

Note – if using different colors, FO color B, join color C

Row 4 – row 6 forms the basic pattern and should be repeated 4 (4, 5, 6) more times

Working in round

Turn your work by 90° (to the side), work the following stitches

Number of petals in the arm x 2 = arm hole. For an armhole of 12”, 6 petals would be needed!!

Attach yarn with a sl. St to the edge of last row, (THE PART MARKED RED IN THE PICTURE ABOVE)

Round 1: CH2, 1HDC into each of the sts on the sides of the petals, making sure that you work 10 Hdc into each side and NOT ON THE CHAINS of the petals, (60, 60, 70, 80 HDC) join with a sl st to 2nd CH

FOR SMALL AND MEDIUM –

Round 2: CH1, 1SC in first 6 sts, *(1SC in next st, 2SC in next st) repeat 23 more times 1SC in last 6 sts, join with a sl.st with the 2nd CH, CH2. (84 SC)

FOR LARGE –

Round 2: – CH1, 1SC in first 6 sts, *(1SC in next st, 2SC in next st) repeat 26 more times, 2SC in next st, 1SC in last 9 sts, join with a sl.st with the 2nd CH (98 SC)

FOR X-LARGE –

Round 2: CH1, 1 SC in first 6 sts, *(1SC in next st, 2SC in next st) repeat 31 times, 1SC in last 10 sts, join with a sl.st with the 2nd CH, CH2. (112SC)

NOTE – the number of stitches at the end of Row 2 must be divisible by 14

i.e for small and medium, there should be 84 stitches which would give 6 petals in the arm (84/14 = 6)

Round 3: *(1SC, CH2, skip 2sts, 1SC, CH2, skip 2, 1SC, CH5, 1SC, CH2, skip 2, 1SC, CH2, skip 2, 1SC) repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, join to 2nd CH made at the beginning CH2. [S – 36 SC, 24 CH2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, M – 36 SC, 24 CH2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, L – 42 SC, 28 CH2 sps, 7 CH5 sps, XL – 48 SC, 32 CH2 sps, 8 CH5 sps]

Round 4: *(CH2, 1 SC in next CH2 sp, 1 SC in next CH2 sp, 14DC in CH5 sp, skip next CH2 sp, 1SC in next CH2 sp), repeat * 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, with a sl st, join to 2nd CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 6 CH2 sps, 18 SC, 84 DC, M – 6 CH2 sps, 18 SC, 84 DC, L – 7 CH2 sps, 21 SC, 98 DC, XL – 8 CH2 sps, 24SC, 112DC]

Round 5: 1SC in first st, *{skip next st, 1SC in next st, (1DC, 2DC) 3 times, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC) 3 times, 1SC in next CH2 sp, 1SC in next st} repeat from {}* repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, join to 2nd CH from the beginning, [S – 19 SC, 120DC, M – 19 SC, 120DC, L – 37 SC, 140 DC, XL – 49SC, 160DC]

Round 6: CH 6, skip first 6sts, SC in 7th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1 SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}* repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, CH1, skip next 5sts, with a sl st, join to 6th CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 37 SC, 12CH2 SPS, 6 CH5 SPS, M – 37 SC, 12CH2 SPS, 6 CH5 SPS, L – 43SC, 14CH2 SPS, 7 CH5 SPS, XL – 49SC, 18CH2 SPS, 8CH5 SPS]

Round 7: 1SC, *(1SC in 1st CH2 sp, skip next 2 sts, 14DC in CH5 sp, skip next st, 1SC in CH 2sp) repeat * repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, 1SC in last st, join to 2nd CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 14SC, 84DC, M – 14DC, 84DC, L – 16SC, 98DC, XL – 18SC, 112DC]

Round 8: 1SC in first st, *{1SC IN NEXT ST, (1DC, 2DC)*3, 1DC, 1DC, (2DC, 1DC)*3, 1SC in next st} repeat * repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, 1SC in last st, join with a sl. St in CH2 sp, CH 6, [S – 14SC, 120DC, M – 14SC, 120DC, L – 16 SC, 140 DC, XL – 20SC, 160DC]

Round 9: skip first 6sts, Sc in 7th st, *{CH2, skip 2, 1SC, skip next st, 1SC, CH5, 1SC in next st, skip next st, 1SC into next st, CH2, skip 2 sts, 1SC, skip next 10 sts, 1SC in next st}, repeat {}* repeat 5, 5, 6, 7 more times, CH1, sk next 5sts, with a sl st, join to 6th CH from the beginning, CH2, [S – 36 SC, 12CH 2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, M – 36 SC, 12 CH2 sps, 6 CH5 sps, L – 43SC, 14 CH2 sps, 7 CH5 sps, XL – 49SC, 18 CH2 sps, 8 CH5 sps]

Repeat round 5 – round 7 (which forms the basic petal) 10, 10, 10, 11 more times, (or till you have a length long enough as sleeves)

Once you’re finished with the length that you want it! Then block your wrap and enjoy wearing it!

Here’s a video I made on how I wear the scarf https://youtu.be/MbEwxnmBnzE. I would love to see your makes, do tag me with pictures on Instagram @crochet_fosbas, or if you need any clarifications, do send me an email to fosbascrochet@gmail.com.

Happy stitching,

Sussana

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Butterfly Cardigan: Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern

This crochet cardigan will make you look like you have butterfly wings! It’s simple construction is gathered in the back, which gives it the affect of butterfly wings. This free crochet pattern is made using the crystal stitch, which is similar to the granny square stitch. It’s a super easy crochet sweater pattern for beginners, that is a great pattern if it’s your first crochet garment.

Inspiration:

My main inspiration for this design was to create something simple and oversized that would be easy for any level of crocheter to make. I’ve been wanting a flowing cardigan with big sleeves for a long time, but could never find one that was in the colors I wanted or that looked good on me. When you can’t find it in the store, it’s time to make it yourself! As I crocheted the cardigan and sewed it together, my husband looked at it and said it looked like butterfly wings. I thought he was such a genius, and new right away that the Butterfly Cardigan was the perfect name for this crochet cardigan!

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Construction

This cardigan pattern is one of the simplest types of construction that you can have for a garment. It’s just two long rectangles sewn together partly, which creates a cardigan that you can wear. The panels each are made using the same crochet stitch pattern, the crystal stitch. Doing the same thing the whole time makes it a wonderful project to work on when you need a nice relaxing project with the same thing done the whole time. I love turning on the tv and working on this project when I don’t want anything too complicated. Once you’re done crocheting both of the panels, you then fold them in half, sew halfway up the back, and sew on the sides to make it wearable.

The Yarn

This project was one of the first designs I created using some Mary Maxim yarn that they sent to me. When I saw the Mary Maxim Alpaca Tweed yarn, I fell in love with the color and wanted to design with it right away! The yarn is a worsted weight alpaca and acrylic blend that creates a soft yarn that has a nice drape to it for garments. It comes in such beautiful colors too! If you don’t have access to this yarn, you can use a cotton worsted weight yarn for summer, or an acrylic or wool worsted weight for a warmer garment in the cold months. Lion Brand 24/7 cotton is my favorite cotton blend yarn right now, and Red Heart Super Saver is an affordable acrylic yarn to use. Some of my testers made it using Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn and it was beautiful!

If you love this pattern, you’ll also love:

1. She Sells Sea Shells Top 2. Cross Back Cardigan 3. May Flowers Blanket

(The rest of the post may be sponsored or contain affiliate links. See my full affiliate disclosure here.)

Supplies:

Stitches Used:

  • St = Stitch (s)
  • R = Row
  • Ch = chain
  • dc = double crochet, in this pattern they’re done in clusters that I call the crystal stitch (tutorial found here.)
  • ( ) = stitch amounts for different size
  • ** = do all that’s between two *
  • [ ] = stitch count at end of round for each size

Gauge:

  • 4”x 4” square (using double crochet crystal stitches, which the tutorial for them can be found here) = 4 crystal sts x 7 rows

Size XS-5X Bust Measurements:

  • XS-M= 28-36″
  • L-2X = 40″-48″
  • 3X-5X = 50-60″

Pattern is made with 4″+ of positive ease that is added to each of these measurements

Pattern Notes:

  • I recommend reading through the entire pattern before starting to make sure that you fully understand the pattern.
  • Ch 2 at beginning of rows counts as a stitch.
  • Pattern uses U.S. Stitch terminology
  • Pattern is worked in two pieces that are then sewn together
  • If you’d like to make your cardigan longer, just add more chains to begin in multiples of 3.
  • The pattern is a loose fitting cardigan that comes in 3 sizes that each fit 3 different standard sizes.
  • -Sizes are listed in pattern from XS-5X with reference to the stitch amounts.

    xs(s, m, l, xl,2x, 3x, 4x, 5x)

    For example “dc 10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17)” the first 10 being the XS, the the first number in parentheses being S and so forth.

  • To learn how to do the crystal stitch pattern, you can view my photo and video tutorial here.

Crochet Cardigan Video Tutorial:

Panels (Make 2):

(Starting in Main Color)

R 1: Ch 98 (107, 122), starting in 3rd ch from hook, dc 96 (105, 120)

(If you’d like to make your kimono longer, just add more chains to begin in multiples of 3.)

R 2: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch throughout the pattern), turn, starting in first dc, dc 1, *ch 1, sk next 2 sts, dc 4 in next st,* repeat 31 (34, 40) more times, ch 1, sk next 2 sts, dc 2 in last dc from previous row [32, 35, 41 crystal stitches]

R 3-12 (3-15, 3-18): Ch 2, turn, dc 1 in first dc, ch 1, *sk to first ch 1 space, dc 4 in chain 1 space, ch 1* repeat 31 (34, 40) more times, last two dc of row are not worked on [32, 35, 41 crystal stitches]

If using two colors, switch to secondary color after row 12 (15, 18).

R 13-24 (16-27, 19-30):  Ch 2, turn, dc 1 in first dc, ch 1, *sk to first ch 1 space, dc 4 in chain 1 space, ch 1* repeat 31 (34, 40) more times, last two dc of row are not worked on [32, 35, 41 crystal stitches]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

Butterfly Cardigan Assembly Photo

1. Take two panels and line the first color edges together, which will be the inner color. Then seam them together to halfway up the panels.

Butterfly Cardigan Assembly Photo

2. This is what they’ll look like sewn together.

Butterfly Cardigan Assembly Photo

3. Next, you’ll fold the sewn panels in half, in order to create the sleeves.

Butterfly Cardigan Assembly Photo

4. To sew the sleeves, you’ll just be seaming up the length of about 7 (15, 18) crystal stitches. This will secure the sleeve together, while still keeping the sleeves nice and flowing. Repeat this same step on the other sleeve, fasten off, and weave in all of the ends.

Now you’re all done!

I hope you love your new Butterfly Cardigan! It’s such a fun piece to wear! If you share a photo of your cardigan on social media, be sure to tag me @eclairemakery and use the hashtag #eclairemakery, so I can share your photo on my account!

Happy stitching,

~Claire

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Cross Back Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

Looking for a unique crochet cardigan to wear this summer? This beginner friendly crochet cardigan made with weight 5 yarn, is the perfect blend of fun and functional! Using a combination of shell stitches and horizontal puff stitches, the back panels create a whimsical stitch pattern that makes anyone look fabulous.

Inspiration for Design

After I saw the cross back sweater designed by Chantal of Knitatude, I knew I wanted to create a crochet version with my own spin on it! I loved how the cross back of the sweater shows off the back while still providing a functional piece to wear. To add my own spin to the sweater, I decided to turn it into a cardigan! When I came up with this cross back cardigan design it was already getting into spring, and I wanted to have something that I could wear any time of year. This sweater design can be worn in the spring or summer if you use a lighter weight bulky yarn like Lion Brand Color Made Easy, or could be worn in fall and winter if you use a heavier weight bulky yarn.

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Construction

After doing a few raglan designs, I found myself wanting to try to make an easy crochet cardigan pattern out of panels. This sweater was the perfect crochet garment to test that out that style of construction with. The garment is made in four pieces: two front panels, and two back panels that form the cross back. Then once you sew them together, the sleeves are worked off of the armholes that are formed. It’s a super beginner friendly crochet pattern because of how simple the construction is. Yes, there is seaming, but it isn’t too much! Plus, I actually like seaming. (I’m kind of in the minority there, hehe.)

The Yarn

When Lion Brand Color Made Easy came out, I heard so many awesome things about it that I knew I wanted to create a sweater using it. I saw some of my favorite designers creating spring and summer things with it, so I thought this design would be perfect for it! Color Made Easy yarn is a Bulky weight 5 yarn that has great body to it. I love how the yarn itself has a super plush feeling to it all while providing great body to whatever it’s made with. It doesn’t feel like it’s a bulky yarn, so it feels like it wouldn’t be too warm to wear during the warmer months. I think it would be a great cardigan for those cool spring and summer nights. It’s a chunky crochet sweater that can be worn all year long. If you use a warmer bulky weight yarn though, that is totally fine! The sweater will still be lovely to wear, and then you can wear it during the cool months too. Now that you know all about it, let’s get to the pattern!

If you love this pattern, you’ll also love:

1. She Sells Sea Shells Top 2. Faux Real Bolero 3. Soceles Triangle Wrap

(The rest of the post may be sponsored or contain affiliate links. See my full affiliate disclosure here.)

Supplies:

Gauge:

4”x 4” square (using double crochets) = 9 st x 5 rows

Stitches Used/Abbreviations:

St = Stitch (s)
R = Row
Rnd = round
Ch = chain
dc = double crochet

( ) = stitch amounts for different size
** = do all that’s between two *
[ ] = stitch count at end of round for each size

horizontal puff stitch = *yarn over, yarn over around post of dc* repeat 2 more times, then yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Sizes: XS-5X Bust Measurements:

  • Sizes are listed in pattern from XS-5X with reference

          – XS = 28″  – 2X = 48″
– S = 32″    – 3X = 52″
– M = 36″  – 4X = 56″
– L = 40″   – 5X = 60″
– XL = 44″

  • Pattern is made with 2″ of positive ease that is added to each of these measurements.
  • Sizes are listed in pattern from XS-5X with reference to the stitch amounts.

                              xs (s,  m,   l,   xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x)
For example “dc 10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17)” the first 10 being the XS, the the first number in parentheses being S and so forth.

Notes:

  • I recommend reading through the entire pattern before starting to make sure that you fully understand the pattern.
  • Ch 2 at beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
  • Pattern uses U.S. Stitch terminology
  • Pattern is worked in 4 panels that are sewn together, and then the sleeves are worked off of those pieces.

Pattern

Front Panel (Make 2):

R 1: Ch 47 (47, 50, 50, 54, 54, 58, 58, 62), starting in 3rd ch from hook, dc 44 (44, 48, 48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 60) R 2-10 (2-11, 2-12, 2-13, 2- 14, 2-15, 2-16, 2-17, 2-18): ch 2, turn, Dc 44 (44, 48, 48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 60) [44, 44, 48, 48, 52, 52, 56, 56, 60]
R 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19): ch 1, turn, sc 1 in first dc, *sk 1, dc 5 in next st, sk 1, sc 1,* repeat 10, (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14) more times [11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15 shell stitches]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing

Back Panel (Make 2):

R 1: ch 58 (58, 62, 62, 66, 66, 70, 70, 74) starting in 3rd chain from hook, dc 56 (56, 60, 60, 64, 64, 68, 68, 72) [56, 56, 60, 60, 64, 64, 68, 68, 72]
R 2: ch 1, turn, sc 1 in first st, *sk 1, dc 5 in next st, sk 1, sc 1* repeat 13 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17) more times [14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18 shell stitches]

R 3: ch 2, sk 1, dc 1, *ch 3, skip over shell to sc 1 from previous row and dc 1, horizontal puff stitch around dc you just did,* 13 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17) more times [14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18 horizontal puff stitches]
R 4-7, (4-7, 4-9, 4-9, 4-9, 4-11, 4-11, 4-13, 4-13): repeat rows 2-3
R 8 (8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14): dc 56 (56, 60, 60, 64, 64, 68, 68, 72) across [56, 56, 60, 60, 64, 64, 68, 68, 72]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Panel Assembly:

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

1. Take both front panels and space them a few inches apart as pictured.

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

2. Take one of the back panels, and line up one of its short edges with the short side of the front panel, which will be the top of the cardigan. Pin it in place.

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

3. To make the armhole, count down 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) stitches, and then pin in place. Also, count down 7-10 stitches and pin to the edge again.

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

4. Take the other short end of the back panel, line it up with the edge of the other front panel so that it goes against the bottom corner. Repeat steps 2-4 with the other back panel.

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

5. Take you yarn needle, thread it with one of the extra tails you left on for sewing, and sew the top edges together. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

6. Sew between the two pins on the side, which will then create the armhole as well as securing the back panel to the side of the front one.

Cross Back Cardigan Panel Assembly Photo

7. Sew the opposite edge you pinned together, and repeat steps 5-7 with the other panel.

Sleeves (Do the following for both sides):

Rnd 1: Sl st in bottom seam join of armhole, ch 2, dc 2 in same st as sl st, dc 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) around edges, dc 2 in last st, join with sl st to ch 2 [30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46]
Rnd 2-9 (2-9, 2-10, 2-10, 2-11, 2-11, 2-12, 2-12, 2-13): dc 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) around [30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46]

Rnd 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14): dc 1, *ch 1, sk 1, dc 1, horizontal puff stitch over dc you just did* repeat 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22) more times [15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 horizontal puff stitches]
Rnd 11-12 (11- 12, 12-14, 12-14, 13-15, 13-15, 14-16, 14-16, 15-17): dc 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) around [30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46]

Rnd 13 (13, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18): dc dec 1, dc 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42), dc dec 1 [28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44]
Rnd 14-16 (14-16, 16-18, 16-18, 17-19, 17-19, 18-20, 18-20, 19-21): dc 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) [28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44]

Rnd 17 (17, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22): dc dec 1, dc 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40), dc dec 1 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42]
Rnd 18-21 (18-21, 20-22, 20-22, 21-23, 21-23, 22-24, 22-24, 23-25): dc 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42]

Rnd 22 (22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25, 26): dc 1, *ch 1, sk 1, dc 1, horizontal puff stitch over dc you just did* repeat 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) more times [13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 horizontal puff stitches]
Rnd 23-24 (23-24, 24-25, 24-25, 25-26, 26-27, 26-27, 27-28): dc 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42]

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Now you’re all done!

I hope you enjoy your brand new cardigan! I loved getting to create this design, and it is so much fun to wear! If you do make this pattern, I’d love to see it. Tag me on instagram @eclairemakery or use #eclairemakery and I will share it!

Happy stitching,

~Claire

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Free Crochet Top Pattern: She Sells Sea Shells Top

Get ready for spring with my newest pattern the She Sells Sea Shells top! This fun crochet top pattern is the perfect piece to add to your spring wardrobe, and it goes with just about everything. It’s both fun an functional while being super easy to make. This design was my first raglan design, and I’m so excited to be share it now!

Pattern Inspiration

Growing up I never felt comfortable with my fashion sense. Jeans and sweatshirts were my go to, and I was to afraid to venture out into taking time to do anything else. Have you ever been like that? I also never thought that I would actually be able to make my own clothes. How could someone who wasn’t confident in fashion make something of her own? I thought that crochet garments were extremely difficult and my skill would never be at the point where I could design. Guess what? I did and you can too! I decided that it was time for me to create my own wardrobe and make my own style.

I grew up by the beach and often take my inspiration for some of my designs from the ocean. Maybe that’s why the shell stitch is one of my favorite stitches to use. As I thought about walks along the beach in the summer, and finding sea shells by the water, I was inspired to create a crochet top that used shell stitches as the accents. Walking along the beach is a simple thing to do, and so I wanted to create a simple crochet top pattern.

Like this pattern? Save it to your favorite Pinterest Board!

She Sells Sea Shells Top Beginner Friendly Free Crochet Pattern by ECLAIREMAKERY.COM

Construction & Skill Level

My goal with this free crochet top pattern was to create a top that anyone could make. It has a raglan construction so that there is no seaming, which is always a plus. One of the other perks of it being a raglan is that it works up super quickly. The pattern uses double crochets for most of the body, with shell stitches as accents on the sleeves and a band of them on the bottom. Overall, it uses simple crochet stitches and crochet techniques so that a beginner or any skill level would be able to make it. Simplicity really can create something that is beautiful!

Pattern Fit & Sizing

With this pattern I also wanted to make sure that any body type would be able to wear it. The pattern has 2″ of positive ease so that it fits nicely on the top, and then flows out more on the bottom. It has a nice and airy design so that in the summer you don’t have anything too snug. I sized the pattern from sizes XS-5X because inclusive sizing is the best!

If you love this pattern, you’ll love these patterns too:

1. Soceles Triangle Wrap 2. Penelope Pouch 3. Carry The World Bag

(The rest of the post may be sponsored or contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link. See my full affiliate disclosure here.)

The Yarn

Now let’s talk about the yarn that I used for this project! One of my closest friends that I’ve made on Instagram is Christine from Buttercup Creates. She is one of the sweetest and creative people that I’ve met, and she is such a talented yarn dyer! Her DK weight yarn has become one of my favorite yarns to crochet with, and when I saw her Toes in the Sand yarn it was the perfect yarn to fit the theme of my top. It’s such a soft yarn, and paired with her Johnny Silver yarn, it created a gorgeous top that I wear all the time. You can check out her beautiful yarn and get some in her Etsy store here.

If you don’t want to invest in indie dyed yarn, some other affordable options for making this top are Lion Brand Baby Soft, Lion Brand Mandala, or Bernat Softee Baby. All of these can be bought through Joann’s for a great price! Here are some of the links and colors I love of those yarns:

Lion Brand Baby Soft Pink Yarn
Lion Brand Baby Soft in Pastel – $4.54-$6.99
Lion Brand Baby Soft in Parfait Print – $4.54-$6.99
Lion Brand Mandala in Wood Nymph – $5.99
Lion Brand Mandala in Phoenix – $5.59
Bernat Softee Baby Ombre Yarn in Princess – $4.19

She Sells Sea Shells Top Beginner Friendly Free Crochet Pattern by ECLAIREMAKERY.COM

Where to get the pattern:


Materials Needed:

Supplies Recommendations:

Lion Brand Baby Soft Pink Yarn
Lion Brand Baby Soft in Pastel – $4.54-$6.99
Lion Brand Baby Soft in Parfait Print – $4.54-$6.99
Lion Brand Mandala in Wood Nymph – $5.99
Lion Brand Mandala in Phoenix – $5.59
Bernat Softee Baby Ombre Yarn in Princess – $4.19

Abbreviations:

  • St = Stitch (s)
  • R = Row
  • SR = Sleeve Row
  • Ch = chain
  • dc = double crochet
  • FDC = Foundation Double Crochet
  • ( ) = stitch amounts for different size
  • ** = do all that’s between two *
  • [ ] = stitch count at end of round for each size

Sizes: XS-5X

Bust Measurements:

– XS = 28″, S = 32″, M = 36″, L = 40″, XL = 44″, 2X = 48″, 3X = 52″, 4X = 56″, 5X = 60″

Pattern is made with 2″ of positive ease that is added to each of these measurements

Pattern Notes:

  • For an easier way to keep track of your size, I’ve color coated each size in the PDF version of this pattern. Click here to get your pdf copy of the pattern.
  • I recommend reading through the entire pattern before starting to make sure that you fully understand the pattern.
  • Ch 2 at beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
  • Pattern uses U.S. Stitch terminology
  • Pattern is worked in a raglan style
  • ch 2 space at beginning of round and at the corners of the raglan neckline square do not count as stitches.
  • Sizes are listed in pattern from XS-5X with reference to the stitch amounts.

                                   xs (s,  m,  l,   xl, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x)

    For example “dc 10 (10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17)” the first 10 being the XS, the the first number in parentheses being S and so forth. These are all highlighted in different colors for each size in the PDF version.

Pattern

Neckline:

Rnd 1: FDC 76 (76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132), join with sl st to first st [76, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132]

 

Rnd 2: ch 2 (does not count as dc for the rest of the pattern), starting in first dc 10 (10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), dc 2 in next st, ch 2, dc 2 in next st without skipping any, dc 19 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33), dc 2 in next st, ch 2, dc 2 in next st without skipping any, dc 15 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29), dc 2 in next st, ch 2, dc 2 in next st, dc 19 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33), dc 2 in next st, ch 2, dc 2 in next st without skipping any, dc 5 (5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sl st to join to the ch 2 at the beginning of the round (does not count as a stitch from now and throughout the rest of the pattern)[84, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140]

 

Rnd 3: ch 2, *dc in each dc to ch 2 space, in ch 2 space (dc 2, ch 2, dc 2,)* repeat 3 more times, dc in each dc to end, sl st to join [100, 100, 108, 116, 124, 140, 148, 156]

 

Repeat Rnd 3 until you finish Rnd 11(11, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16) [228, 228, 268, 292, 300, 324, 332, 356, 364]

 

Join for Body:

When you get to where you join the body, your piece will be a square like this.

She Sells Sea Shells - Free Crochet Top Pattern by ECLAIREMAKERY.COM

Rnd 12 (12, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17): ch 2, *dc in each dc to ch 2 space, in ch 2 space dc 2, ch 3 (counts as 3 stitches), sk 59 (59, 69, 75, 77, 83, 85, 91, 93) to next ch 2 space, dc 2 in ch 2 space,* repeat 1 more time, dc in each dc to end, sl st to join [124, 124, 144, 156, 160, 172, 176, 188, 192]

 

Body Increase Rows

 

Rnd 13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18): ch 2, *dc 16 (16, 19, 21, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26) dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 3(3, 4, 2, 6, 4, 1, 6, 3) join [129, 129, 151, 163, 167, 179, 183, 195, 199]

Rnd 14(14, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19): ch 2, *dc 17 (17, 20, 22, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 3(3, 4, 2, 6, 4, 1, 6, 3), join [136, 136, 158, 170, 174, 186, 190, 202, 206]

 

XS Begin working in continuous rounds (written below). Sizes S-5X keep increasing.

 

Rnd 15 (17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20): ch 2, *dc 18 (21, 23, 23, 25, 26, 27, 28), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 3 (4, 2, 6, 4, 1, 6, 3), join [143, 165, 177, 181, 193, 197, 209, 213]

 

Sizes S-L begin working in continuous rounds. Sizes XL-5X keep increasing.

 

Rnd 19 (20, 20, 21, 21): ch 2, *dc 24, (26, 27, 28, 29), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc  6 (4, 1, 6, 3), join [188, 200, 204, 216, 220]

Rnd 20 (21, 21, 22, 22): ch 2, *dc 25, (27, 28, 29, 30), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 6 (4, 1, 6, 3), join [195, 207, 211, 223, 227]

 

Sizes XL-2X begin working in continuous rounds. Sizes 3X-5X keep increasing.

 

Rnd 22 (23, 23): ch 2, *dc 29 (30, 31), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 1 (6, 3), join [218, 230, 234]

Rnd 23 (24, 24): ch 2, *dc 30 (31, 32), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 1 (6, 3), join [225, 237, 241]

 

Size 3X begin working in continuous rounds. Sizes 4X-5X keep increasing.

 

Rnd 25 (25): ch 2, *dc 32 (33), dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 6 (3), join [243, 248]

 

Size 4X begin working in continuous rounds. Size 5X keep increasing.

 

Rnd 26: ch 2, *dc 34, dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 3, join [255]

Rnd 27: ch 2, *dc 35, dc 2 in next st* repeat 6 more times, dc 3, join [262]

 

Size 5X begin working in continuous rounds.

Body Working in Continuous Rounds

Begin working in continuous rounds, marking first stitch in round with a stitch marker.

 

Rnd 15-36 [16-38, 18-39, 20-40, 21-40, 22-41, 24-41, 26-42, 28-42]: dc 136, (143, 165, 177, 195, 200, 225, 243, 262) in each dc around

On last of the continuous rounds, for sizes XL & 2X dec 2 at the end of the round, and sizes 3X and 4X dec 1 at the end of the round

 

Shell Stitch Bottom

 

Continue working in continuous rounds with no joining for this part of the pattern.

 

Switch yarn color and sl st into first st of next round

 

Rnd 37 (39, 40, 41, 41, 42, 42, 43, 43): *sk 1, dc 5 in next st, sk 1, sc 1* repeat 31 (33, 40, 43, 46, 49, 51, 56, 59) more times, on last repeat skip to the sl st at the beginning of the round and sc 1 [32 shell stitches & 33 sc, 34 shell stitches & 35 sc, 41 shell stitches & 42 sc, 44 shell stitches & 45 sc, 47 shell stitches & 48 sc, 50 shell stitches & 51 sc, 52 shell stitches & 53 sc, 57 shell stitches & 58 sc, 60 shell stitches & 61 sc]

 

Rnd 38 (40, 41, 42, 42, 43, 43, 44, 44): dc 5 in first st, *sk 2 to center stitch of shell stitch in previous round, sc 1 in center stitch, sk 2 to the sc in the middle of the shell stitches in the previous round, dc 5 in sc* repeat 33 (34, 41, 44, 47, 50, 52, 57, 60), sk 2 to center stitch of shell stitch in previous round, sc 1 in center stitch of shell [32 shell stitches & 33 sc, 34 shell stitches & 35 sc, 41 shell stitches & 42 sc, 44 shell stitches & 45 sc, 47 shell stitches & 48 sc, 50 shell stitches & 51 sc, 52 shell stitches & 53 sc, 57 shell stitches & 58 sc, 60 shell stitches & 61 sc]

 

Rnd 39 (41, 42, 43, 43, 44, 44, 45, 45): *sk 2 to the sc in the middle of the shell stitches in the previous round, dc 5 in sc, sk 2 to center stitch of shell stitch in previous round, sc 1 in center stitch of shell* repeat 33 (34, 41, 44, 47, 50, 52, 57, 60), sk 2 to middle of last shell stitch, sc in middle st between shells (you’ll be skipping 2 st in the next round to dc 5 in first st) [32 shell stitches & 33 sc, 34 shell stitches & 35 sc, 41 shell stitches & 42 sc, 44 shell stitches & 45 sc, 47 shell stitches & 48 sc, 50 shell stitches & 51 sc, 52 shell stitches & 53 sc, 57 shell stitches & 58 sc, 60 shell stitches & 61 sc]

 

Rnd 40-45(42-47, 43-48, 44-49, 44-49, 45-50, 45-50, 46-51, 46-51)): repeat rounds 38 and 39

 

If you would like your top to be longer, just keep repeating rounds 38-39 (the row numbers for the XS size) till you get the desired length.

Shell Stitch Sleeve Edging

Once you’ve finished with the main part of the sweater, it’s time to add trim to the sleeves to finish off the piece.

 

 

 

 

 

To begin sleeves, sl st in first double crochet before the ch 3 that joined the body, sc 1 in that same st, *sk 1, dc 5 in next st, sk 1 sc 1* repeat 13 (14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22) more times

Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Now you’re all done!

She Sells Sea Shells Top Beginner Friendly Free Crochet Pattern by ECLAIREMAKERY.COM

I hope you love you brand new crochet top! You’ll love wearing this top to the beach or on all of those fun spring and summer outings you’ll be going on. This will soon become a staple in your wardrobe! I’d love to see your finished top! Use the hashtag #eclairemakery or tag me @eclairemakery on Instagram and Facebook, and I’d love to share your finished top. I can’t wait to see what you’ve made!

Happy stitching,

~Claire

 

Save this pattern for later!

She Sells Sea Shells Top Beginner Friendly Free Crochet Pattern by ECLAIREMAKERY.COM