There’s something about a cute crochet clutch pattern that can be just the thing your favorite outfit needs. Whether you need something to hold essential items, or just want a cute accessory, this adorable chevron tapestry crochet clutch pattern makes a great purse! Featuring a chevron zig zag stripe, this free crochet bag pattern is an easy beginner tapestry crochet bag project. It’s modern crochet bag design looks amazing with any outfit!
This fun crochet bag pattern was designed by this week’s guest blogger, Sarah from Ned and Mimi! When Sarah sent me a photo of this design, I was instantly in love! Tapestry crochet patterns always hold a special place in my heart, and this modern tapestry crochet design is just too cute. I think you are going to love this free crochet bag pattern, which even includes a tutorial on how to sew the lining. With that, I’ll hand the reigns over to Sarah, and she can share her pattern with you!
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Hello, my crocheting friends! I’m Sarah, crochet designer and blogger over at Ned & Mimi. I am thrilled to have the opportunity to share a guest design here on E’Claire Makery, thanks so much for having me, Claire!
My mom taught me to crochet as a child, but I promptly forgot everything I had learned. That was until I picked up my crochet hook again to make a blanket for my first baby. Since then, I haven’t been able to put the hook down. When I’m not working in my day job as a software developer, or running around after my young family, you can pretty much guarantee that I’m thinking about crochet!
Until I started crocheting, I always thought that I was too left-brained to be creative. Now I think crochet is the perfect mix of art and logic. I love to combine design with function and I try my best to be intentional about what I create and design – it must be going to a good home, or fulfilling a purpose in my own home.
I live in Ireland (where the unpredictable weather ensures ample time for crocheting), with my husband and three children.
About the Pattern
The Chevron Fold Over Clutch is a crochet bag pattern designed to hold the essentials – pop in your phone, keys and wallet, and you’re good to go! I added a wrist strap to my crochet clutch as I like to have both hands free, but this is completely optional if you don’t have the supplies.
The pattern includes a full photo tutorial on how to attach a fabric liner and zipper to the clutch. And don’t worry, it requires only very basic sewing skills; honestly, if I can manage it anyone can.
I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK for my clutch. I love 100% cotton or a cotton blend for a purse or clutch, as it is super durable, and gives good weight and structure for everyday use. Other great options (which my testers used), are Lion Brand Coboo, Hobby Lobby I Love this Cotton, or Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream.
Although I used #3/DK weight yarn for my clutch, the pattern will work just as well with a #4/worsted yarn – your finished piece will just end up a little larger than mine of course ☺
- 3.5mm/E-4 (if using #3 / Light / DK weight yarn)
- 4mm/G-6 (if using #4 / Medium / Worsted weight yarn)
Note: You want to choose a hook that will give you nice tight stitches so that the carried yarn will not peek through. If you crochet very loosely you may even need to go down another hook size. You will probably end up going with smaller hook than what you would normally use with your chosen yarn – this is completely fine!
Yarn: Any #3/Light/DK OR #4/Medium/Worsted yarn.
The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yds (125m) per 50g skein; #3/Lightweight; 100% Cotton)
- MC: Soft Fudge – 98 yds / 90m (36g)
- CC1: Seafoam Blue – 66 yds / 60m (24g)
- CC2: Vintage Pink – 66 yds / 60m (24g)
- Fabric (approx. 9” x 18.5” / 23 cm x 50 cm)
- Zipper (approx. 9 – 10” / 23 – 25cm)
- Stitch marker
- Optional: D-ring/split ring and clasp
Width: approx. 8.5” / 22 cm
Height: approx. 9.25” / 24 cm unfolded (6” / 15 cm folded)
22 stitches x 19 rows = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo) worked in the round.
Note: It is not essential to match gauge for this project.
Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- This clutch is crocheted in the round from the bottom up.
- You will crochet the clutch as a “tube”, then seam the bottom to close it. (Leave a long tail at the start of your foundation chain and use this to close up the bottom.)
- Attach fabric liner and zipper to finish.
- The clutch is crocheted using the tapestry crochet technique.
- You will always work with two strands of yarn:
- one is your working yarn
- the second is carried beneath your stitches
- On rounds that only have one color, you should still carry a strand (of the same color) to keep the tension even.
- Take care not to pull your carried yarn too tightly, as this will cause your work to bunch up. If you have never done this before, don’t worry – it gets easier with practice.
- Change color as follows:
- With Color A, insert hook into blo of next st, yarn over and pull through (two loops on hook).
- Do not complete the stitch with Color A.
- Instead, keep Color A to the back of your work, yarn over Color B and pull through both loops on hook. Color change made.
- Carry Color A beneath your stitches until you reach the next color change.
For a great video and photo tutorial on how to change colors in tapestry crochet, please check out the tutorial here on Claire’s blog: Beginner’s Guide to Tapestry Crochet or in the video below.
Chart & Written Instructions
- For the colorwork section, you can either use the Colorwork Chart in the Appendix or follow the written instructions.
- If using the chart, start at the bottom right corner and work right-to-left. Each square on the chart corresponds to 1 sc.
- The chart pattern repeats every 10 sts.
- If using the written instructions, for each block of color, the instruction is written as follows:
(COLOR) stitch COUNT
e.g. (CC1) sc (blo) 5
- Pattern written in US crochet terminology.
- All rounds are worked through the back loop only (blo).
- Do not join at the end of each round – continue working in a spiral. Mark the first st of each round with a stitch marker.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round.
- To make the clutch wider, chain any multiple of 10. Each 10 extra sts will add approx. 1.5” – 2” to the width.
- To make the clutch longer (i.e. higher), you can either crochet the MC (main color) section to your desired height and then work the colorwork as per the pattern OR add an extra colorwork repeat i.e. 8 extra rounds.
- ch = chain
- st = stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- blo = back loop only
- pm = place marker
- MC = Main Color
- CC1 = Contrast Color 1
- CC2 = Contrast Color 2
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
Chevron Foldover Clutch Pattern
Foundation Chain: With MC and leaving a long tail, ch 90, sl st to first ch to form a ring (being careful not to twist the chain).
N.B. Don’t forget to carry another strand of MC beneath your stitches as you work the first 16 rounds.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc (blo) in first ch and in each ch around, do not join. 
Round 2: sc (blo) in first st (pm in this sc), sc (blo) in each st around, do not join. 
Rounds 3 – 16: Repeat Round 2.
Note: for Rounds 17 – 40, you can either follow the written instructions here, or the colorwork chart below. You will work the 10-st pattern repeat in the chart 9 times around i.e. 90 sts.
Round 17: *(CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 5; repeat from * around, do not join.
Round 18: (CC2) sc (blo) 1, *(CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 5; repeat from * until 9 sts remain, (CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 4, do not join.
Round 19: (CC2) sc (blo) 2, *(CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 5; repeat from * until 8 sts remain, (CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 3, do not join.
Round 20: (CC2) sc (blo) 3, *(CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 5; repeat from * until 7 sts remain, (CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 2, do not join.
Round 21: (CC2) sc (blo) 4, *(CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 5; repeat from * until 6 sts remain, (CC1) sc (blo) 5, (CC2) sc (blo) 1, do not join.
Round 22: Repeat Round 20.
Round 23: Repeat Round 19.
Round 24: Repeat Round 18.
Rounds 25 – 40: Repeat Rounds 17 – 24 [2 times].
Round 41: Repeat Round 17.
Round 42 – 45: With MC, repeat Round 2 [3 times].
Round 46: Sl st (both loops) in each st around, sl st to join to first st. Fasten off.
Pin pouch to a blocking mat. I wet-blocked mine but steam blocking would work well too.
Don’t skip this step! It will give you a chance to correct any shaping issues with your work.
Seam Bottom of Clutch
Once blocked, turn the clutch inside out and whip stitch the bottom edges together.
Weave in any ends and turn clutch the right way around.
Attach Zipper & Liner
1) Cut a piece of fabric to the following measurements:
Width: clutch width + 0.25” seam allowance at each side i.e. 8.5” + 0.5” = 9” / 23 cm
Height: clutch height x 2 i.e. 9.25” x 2 = 18.5” / 50 cm
Ideally, press your fabric to make it easier to sew.
2) Lay fabric flat with right side facing up. Lay zipper on top (also right side up), so that the top edges of the fabric and zipper are aligned. Pin in place and sew.
3) Fold zipper up so that you are looking at the WS of the zipper. Now fold the bottom edge of the fabric upwards to meet the top edge of the zipper.
Pin in place and sew. When you are done you will be looking at the RS of the zipper and the WS of the fabric i.e. you want the RS of the fabric to be visible when you open the clutch.
4) Pin the back and front of the liner together on each side, and sew. Position your seams so that your finished liner will be the same width as the pouch.
5) Insert liner into clutch and pin in place. Sew zipper to clutch.
Wrist Strap (optional)
Crochet an i-cord approx. 12” / 30cm in length. Sew ends together to form a loop. Attach to base of clasp as shown.
Note: This video from Bella Coco Crochet shows how to crochet an i cord: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o97aBEJ4Mto
Fold the clutch in half so that the edges of the colorwork are aligned. Attach the D-ring or split ring at the fold line.
Appendix: Colorwork Chart
This chart repeats every 10 sts and 8 rows. On each round, you will work 9 repeats of the chart.
Start at the bottom right corner, and work from right to left. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch.
And finally, if you have questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
Where to find me:
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