Farm Fresh Market Bag: Free Crochet Bag Pattern

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Farm Fresh Market Bag: Free Crochet Bag Pattern

As I’m getting ready to plant my summer garden at my new home, I’m dreaming of fresh veggies straight from the garden. Usually during the summer I get a lot of my fresh veggies from my father-in-law’s garden, but this year I can finally have one of my own. So of course I’m going to need a brand new bag to carry them in! If you need a new bag to carry all your produce, then you are going to love my latest free crochet pattern, the Farm Fresh Market Bag! This fun crochet market bag pattern can hold so much, and is the perfect crochet resuable bag to use at the grocery store or farmers market. It’s made using the waistcoat stitch and intarsia crochet, to make a unique and modern colorwork bag. You’re going to love it!

Get pattern 25% off using code FARMFRESH in my Etsy and Ravelry shops through 5/31!

Inspiration

In my hometown, every Thursday night, there is a huge farmers market where farmers and other vendors come from the central coast of California to sell their fresh produce. It is amazing all of the fresh fruits and veggies you can find! There are also a ton of farm stands all over my hometown where you can get produce straight from the farm. Here where I live now I have just as much access to fresh ingredients, which is so fun! Seeing so many farmers markets was my biggest inspiration for this design. I wanted to create a nice and sturdy bag that could hold lots and lots of produce. This crochet market bag pattern can definitely do that!

Want to save this pattern for later? Save it to your favorite Pinterest board! (Save it from mine here!)

Construction

When designing this crochet bag pattern, I wanted to make sure that it was both sturdy and spacious enough to hold a lot of groceries. To make sure the bag is sturdy, I went with holding two strands of worsted weight cotton yarn together. This helps reduce the stretching that can happen with crochet bags, and ended up working out perfectly with using the waistcoat stitch. The bottom of the bag is worked in single crochet back and forth in rows. Then after finishing the bottom, you continue off of that and start working in the round to create the body of the bag. You’ll then use intarsia crochet to do the colorwork, which makes such a cute crochet market bag!

New to Tapestry Crochet or Crochet Crochet Color Work?

When I was first learning how to do crochet color work, I often felt so lost having to learn how to do color changes and reading crochet graphs. It can seem so intimidating to learn a new crochet skill! If you’re new to tapestry crochet or color work, then I’ve got just the resource for you.

Here on my blog, I’ve got a two free crochet tutorial for how to do tapestry crochet and intarsia crochet, which are the two most common crochet color work techniques. They’ll walk you through what each technique is, how to read crochet graphs, how to change colors in crochet, and a bunch of other tips I have for color work! You can find them here on my blog at:

The Beginner’s Guide to Tapestry Crochet: (This technique is used when you would like to carry your yarn, and the color work is close together.)

The Beginner’s Guide to Intarsia Crochet: (This technique is used when you don’t want to carry your yarn, and instead would like to use yarn bobbins. I used this for this pattern.)

The Yarn

To make this bag, I used my favorite cotton yarn, WeCrochet’s Dishie! This 100% cotton worsted weight yarn is perfect for crocheting bags with. I used two strands of Dishie held together, which helps combat some of stretching that occurs with crochet bags. You’ve got to check out this amazing cotton yarn that comes in so many wonderful colors that were just right for this crochet bag pattern.

If you don’t want to use Dishie yarn, you can also use another worsted weight cotton yarn to make this. You’ll want to make sure you have plenty to be able to hold it double stranded, which can be done either using two skeins or splitting one skein into two. You’ll need 8 different colors to make this make. Here’s the approximate yardage info for the pattern:

  • MC = 1250 yds (a little over 6 skeins of WeCrochet Dishie)
  • CC1 = 100 yds
  • CC2 = 15 yds
  • CC3 = 75 yds
  • CC4 = 50 yds
  • CC5 = 50 yds
  • CC6 = 50 yds
  • CC7 = 25 yds

Get pattern 25% off using code FARMFRESH in my Etsy and Ravelry shops through 5/31!

 

Bag Dimensions: 14” tall x 18” wide

Gauge: 11 ws x 14 rows

Hook: 7mm

Yarn: WeCrochet Dishie (Weight 4 worsted weight, 190yds, 100g) in 7 colors:

  • Linen (MC)
  • Black (CC1)
  • White (CC2)
  • Jalapeño (CC3)
  • Fiesta Red (CC4)
  • Clementine (CC5)
  • Creme Brulee (CC6)
  • Lilac Mist (CC7)

Approximate Yarn Yardage:

  • MC = 1250 yds (a little over 6 skeins of WeCrochet Dishie)
  • CC1 = 100 yds
  • CC2 = 15 yds
  • CC3 = 75 yds
  • CC4 = 50 yds
  • CC5 = 50 yds
  • CC6 = 50 yds
  • CC7 = 25 yds

Abbreviations:

  • ch = chain 
  • sc = single crochet 
  • st(s) = stitch(es) 
  • rnd = round 
  • ws = waistcoat st 
  • MC = Main Color 
  • CC1 = Contrast Color 1
  • CC2 = Contrast Color 2 
  • CC3 = Contrast Color 3 
  • CC4 = Contrast Color 4 
  • CC5 = Contrast Color 5 
  • CC6 = Contrast Color 6
  • CC7 = Contrast Color 7

Pattern Notes:

  • Want a chart to help make this pattern easier to crochet? Grab the discounted PDF pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry shops!
  • This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
  • The pattern is made with 2 strands of worsted weight yarn held together throughout the entire pattern.
  • The bottom of the bag is done in sc and the body of the bag is done in waistcoat stitch.
  • The bottom of the bag is worked back and forth in rows, and the body of the bag is worked in continuous rounds.
  • I recommend using intarsia crochet for the colorwork in this pattern. Place a bobbin at each letter for the words, and for each vegetable. That way you don’t have to cut the yarn and rejoin it at the end of each round. 


Pattern:

Want a chart to help make this pattern easier to crochet? Grab the discounted PDF pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry shops!

Bottom of Bag:

Holding two strands of the MC together, ch 45

 

Row 1: starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 44

 

Row 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc across

 

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across, then continue crocheting around the edges of the bottom by sc 8 along the short edge, then sc 44 on the ch st side, then sc 8 along the other short edge, join with a sl st to the ch 1 at the beginning

 

We’ll now start working in the round to crochet the body of the bag.

 

Body of bag:

 

Rnd 1: ch 1, sc around, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd

 

The next rnd will be our first round of the waistcoat st.

 

Rnd 2: ch 1, ws in each sc around, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd

 

Row 3-5: (MC) ch 1, ws around, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

The next rnd begins the word colorwork for the pattern. Remember, whenever you add in a new color, you will need to have it be double stranded. You can add in a bobbin of yarn at each point where you’ll need it. You can also carry the yarn to the end of the colorwork then cut the yarn, and rejoin it on the next rnd.

 

Row 6: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 7: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 7, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 8: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 7, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 9: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 3, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 3, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 10: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 11: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 12: (MC) ch 1, ws 62, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 18, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 13-17: (MC) ch 1, ws around, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

The next rnd starts the vegetable portion of the colorwork. Remember, whenever you add in a new color, you will need to have it be double stranded. I recommend joining bobbins at each veggie, versus carrying it each rnd. This way you don’t have to cut the yarn each rnd.

 

Row 18: (MC) ch 1, ws 78, (CC2) ws 2, (MC) ws 24, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 19: (MC) ch 1, ws 59, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 5, (CC4) ws 5, (MC) ws 6, (CC2) ws 1, (MC) ws 8, (CC5) ws 2, (MC) ws 15, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 20: (MC) ch 1, ws 58, (CC3) ws 5, (MC) ws 3, (CC4) ws 7, (MC) ws 5, (CC2) ws 1, (MC) ws 8, (CC5) ws 2, (MC) ws 15, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 21: (MC) ch 1, ws 58, (CC3) ws 1, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC4) ws 9, (MC) ws 2, (CC2) ws 5, (MC) ws 6, (CC5) ws 2, (MC) ws 15, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 22: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC4) ws 9, (MC) ws 1, (CC7) ws 7, (MC) ws 4, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 23: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC4) ws 9, (MC) ws 1, (CC7) ws 7, (MC) ws 4, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 24: (MC) ch 1, ws 52, chart begins, ws 5, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 2, (CC3) ws 2, (CC4) ws 1, (CC3) ws 1, (CC4) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 3, (CC7) ws 5, (MC) ws 5, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 25: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 3, (CC3) ws 5, (MC) ws 5, (CC7) ws 3, (MC) ws 6, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 26: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 2, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 5, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 7, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 27: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 4, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 7, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 6, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 28: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 1, (CC6) ws 5, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 12, (CC3) ws 5, (MC) ws 5, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 29: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 1, (CC6) ws 5, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 12, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 5, (CC5) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 30: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 1, (CC6) ws 5, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 10, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 4, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 15, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 31: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 1, (CC6) ws 5, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 10, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 2, (CC3) ws 6, (MC) ws 13, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 32: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 10, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 12, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 33: (MC) ch 1, ws 56, (CC3) ws 3, (CC6) ws 3, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 9, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 3, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 12, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 34: (MC) ch 1, ws 57, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC6) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 22, (CC3) ws 4, (MC) ws 14, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 35: (MC) ch 1, ws 85, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 2, (CC3) ws 2, (MC) ws 13, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 36-40: (MC) ch 1, ws around [104 sts]

 

Row 40: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 19, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 41: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 11, chart ends, ws 8, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 42: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 5, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 19, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 43: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 19, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 44: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 4, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 19, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 45: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 2, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 1, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 5, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 19, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 46: (MC) ch 1, ws 63, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 3, (CC1) ws 1, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 3, (MC) ws 2, (CC1) ws 4, (MC) ws 19, join with sl st to ch 1 at beginning of rnd [104 sts]

 

Row 48-52: (MC) ch 1, ws around [104 sts]

 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Straps (Make 2):

 

Using two strands of the MC, ch 8

 

Row 1: starting in the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc 6

 

Rows 2-40: ch 2, turn, hdc across

 

Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Assembly:

Once you’ve finished making the straps, it’s time to sew them on. Flatten out the bag, and measure in approximately 4 inches on each side. Position each end of the strap at the 4 inch mark on each side, and repeat for the second strap as well. Then sew on using a yarn needle and extra strand of the MC.

I hope that you love your new Farm Fresh Market Bag! If you make a Farm Fresh Market Bag of your own, be sure to tag me on social media, @eclairemakery and use #eclairemakery so that I can share your projects. I can’t wait to see what you make!

Happy stitching,

Claire

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